I am currently preparing to repaint my HO F-M H16-44 in my freelanced railroad based off my dads old firewood company Country Hardwoods. It will haul logs, firewood, woodchips, lumber, and paper. It will be based in the 50’s and 60’s so it will have a couple steamers (one shay) and some early diesels. But I am getting ready to airbrush it just need to buy the paint (will be similar to BN sceme, with same colors, except the safty stripes will be like Rio Grande, and Wheeling & Lake Erie’s like V’s). I was wondering a couple things. First, do you need to thin the paint for the airbrush if you buy it from Pollyscale and places like that? If so do I just use paint thinner? Also the windows, how do I avoid painting them?. And for the fans how do I keep it from plugging all those holes in that grid? And most of the detail parts need replacing, where can I get all of them? Finally would you seperate the cab from the main body of the loco? Thanks Mike
I was wondering a couple things. First, do you need to thin the paint for the airbrush if you buy it from Pollyscale and places like that?
Yes…you thin it until there are no more particals in the airbrushed paint (use a piece of paper for testing your mixture)
If so do I just use paint thinner?
No. Use the thinner that is recommended on the paint label.
Also the windows, how do I avoid painting them?
You need to either mask them off, or preferably dissasemble the locomotive completely.
And for the fans how do I keep it from plugging all those holes in that grid?
Light light coats. If you see paint running, you have put WAY too much on. Take your time and use light coats.
And most of the detail parts need replacing, where can I get all of them?
Your Local well stocked hobby shop.
Finally would you seperate the cab from the main body of the loco?
Yes I would. I would completely dissasemble the loco.
A few more tips.
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Use a primer to give your paint an even clean slate. Make sure you scrub your model with soap and water to remove any crap on it before priming it.
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Plan your paint coats…Dark colors (black, blue) will cover light colors (white, yellow).
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Allow a day if you intend to mask. Failure to allow the paint to cure will result in paint lifting.
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Take your time. Apply as little paint as possible. Do not attempt to get coverage on your first pass.
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Before decaling, apply a Gloss coat (allows the decals a smooth surface and will help with them adhering)
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After decaling, apply a Gloss or flat finish (to protect your work)
There are many thing to learn when painting. But the best teacher is practice!
Hope this helps.
David
PolyScale and Modelflex are both water-based Acrylic paints. Their paint thinners for acylic paints are interchangable or you can use a mix of 80% disstilled water and 20% isopropl (70%) alcohol.
PolyScale generally needs to be thinned for airbrush use, Modelflex is generally airbrush ready. Mainly the paint should have the consistency of whole milk to spray it. Stir the bottles with a stick to make sure you get all the particles thoroughly mixed.
Practice on a cheap car or something before you do the locomotive. It will take a few light passes for each coat, (allow for drying in between coats). It usually will take 2-3 coats to cover fully. Don’t Rush It! When spraying, the paint should be almost dry when it hits the model, if it goes on too wet, it will tend to run and/or obscure details. If you don’t like the results, you can strip the paint off with some 90% isopropl alcohol (avaiable at Wally’s world). Rewash with water and a little dish detergent and start over. Good Luck.
Before jumping in and airbrushing your first loco, find an old shell or use a cheap piece of rolling stock for practice. You could try your hand at masking over details and gain some experience this way.
Every time I fire up the airbrush, I make it a point to make a few test passes on scrap cardboard to make sure the gun is spraying properly.
Lightly paint those hard to reach spots first, pilots, steps, sides of protruding details etc. Similar to painting (jambing) door jambs etc for auto painting.
Then start your passes for complete coverage. I try to move quickly, to blend various sides and to eliminate oversprays. Proper coverage will allow the paint to level and provide a uniform finish.