Alclad2 Basecoat Color Update and New Airbrush

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hello,

I’m posting this on multiple forums as some modelers have asked about the status of Alclad2’s new basecoat color releases. I’m likely jumping the gun a bit as I was going to wait until my current streamlined car projects were finished, but I didn’t want modelers to think I was ignoring them. I’ll share the current info:

I’m one of the Beta testers for Alclad2, and Tony Hipp recently sent me several Basecoat color tones and Alclad2 Metalizers to test and provide feedback on.

  1. On this first batch, two Scale Coat 2 grays are compared to two of Alclad’s basecoat formulas. On the 4th photo, I applied a low sheen Alclad2 metalizer:[/size]


The aim here was to compare tones and hues, check color hiding, and how well the Alclad2 basecoats atomized, not the metallizer’s brilliance. The 4th photo is angled because it was taken outdoors and the test samples kept picking up my camera’s reflective surface, so I stepped back and turned it slightly. On my next batch, a new high shee

2

Thanks for the update, and keep up the good work with Alclad!

3

Keep it up Antonio! [:D]

4

Hey guys,

Thanks! A couple of quick tidbits…

  1. Here is more info on the airbrushes: http://alclad2.com/finishes/airbrushes/

  2. I’ve been asked a few questions regarding basecoat colors. Guys, regardless of what brand you decide to use as your basecoat foundation under Alclad, I respectfully but strongly suggest that you stick with grays and not use “jet black” if you want a finish that represents the appearance of the SS on railcars. Black will yield a tone that is too dark. For modelers that want a “new” out of the factory appearance, the dark grays tones (like NYC Dk. Gray) will yield more realistic results.

I realize that appearance is subjective, however, one of the easiest “no brainer” ways to gauge your results is to check them in natural light, outdoors (out of the sun or on an overcast day).

High Greens [:D]

5

Hi guys,

Just an update as I received email inquiries.

I’ve finished Beta Testing the new Alclad2 formulas and, imho, I think passenger car modelers are going to like them! I’ll upload some more photos in the future, but I’m currently working on a magazine article and a report to Alclad.

Alclad2 is awaiting feedback reports from the Beta Testers, including me. The report will include: photo samples, detailed info on air pressure settings, airbrush used, room temperatures that the mixes were applied in, opinions on flow out, recoat times, any problems encountered, feedback from other modelers.

High Greens 8-)

6

Thought I’d share this here:

A modeler on another forum asked about applying Alclad2 on modern aluminum hoppers. Very intriguing as the prototypes are quite attractive and, imho, the Alclad2 aluminum metalizers will yield a more realistic appearance than plain silver.

Aluminum Hoppers

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/pictures\36199\bnsf670832.jpg

I contacted Alclad’s rep and asked about Alclad2 applications for the modern aluminum hoppers, such as the units used by BNSF.

He suggested the following options:

  1. Apply Alclad2 Grey Primer #302 on to the body as a basecoat. You can polish that gray with Micromesh or 1500 wet/dry paper to get it very smooth.

  2. Apply Alclad2 Polished Aluminum #105. (Seal with Aqua 600 Klear (water) or #310 Gloss Klear (solvent).

OR

  1. Choose a light, pale gray such as Scale Coat #020 MOW Gray or you can even mix your own version. Make certain the painted surfaces on those flat panels are very smooth and glossy after the paint has cured.

  2. Apply Alclad2 Polished Aluminum #105. (Seal with Aqua 600 Klear (water) or #310 Gloss Klear (solvent).

Re: Alclad on brass rolling stock

Alclad’s rep stated that Alclad2 basecoats adhere to metal without being baked as some of the chemicals in Alclad2 products are also used in automotive paints. But the critical key is that the surface be very clean and free of silicones, waxes, etc. As with plastic, after the metalizer is applied, it should be sealed with one of the clear coats (gloss, preferably, for decals). After decal installations are finished, the entire shell can be sealed

7

Antonio,

I found out about Alclad at a hobbyshow last weekend, and the more I llok for info in the internet the more I come across your name.

I’m planning to strip a Proto1000 Budd RDC and paint it with Alclad. The look I’d like to achieve is that of the Alaska RR Budd’s, a clean but slightly worn-out look. Not too different from the Rapido Canadian shown in this photo.

Reading your posts I should use a glossy gray base and then the Alclad Chrome or Stainless metal paint, is it correct?

Alclad has a gray primer, but it’s not High Gloss. Would it work too?

Thank you for all your inspirational work and for your help,

Guido

8

Hello Guido,

Thank you.

I’ve seen a good number of photos of the Alaska units. Here’s a page with them:

http://www.budd-rdc.org/rdctypes.html

Keeping in mind that photos exhibit their own biases, the surfaces on the Alaska Budds appear aged (and grimy) but still exhibit a noticeable, reflective sheen.

There are several routes you can take but here’s one that keeps it “Alclad simple”.

You can apply Alclad’s #302 gray primer (make certain it lays on very smoothly). If you see any texture, polish the surface with Micromesh in horizontal strokes. Seal it with the #303 Clear Base (1 - 2 coats wet). When finished, you should have a very smooth, glossy surface.

Apply Alclad #105 in a misting pattern (2 to 3 mist coats, 3 to 5 minutes apart). Do NOT apply it wet. Seal with the metal finish with the Alclad gloss clear. You may use either the #310, #303, or the water based Aqua 600 clears. Apply your decals. Seal the decals with one smooth wet coat of the gloss clear that you used.

Check your shell outdoors in natural lighting.

Now, to achieve the “worn appearance” it’s simple: Apply another smooth coat of gloss clear (or Alclad’s Semi-gloss clear). You’ll notice that the sheen has dulled slightly. After the clear has dried, check it in natural lighting again. If it is still too reflective, apply another coat of clear. This will dull it down some more.

But go easy in this stage as too many coats of clear will make your model look “silver”.

Some modelers have found that after sealing their decals, just two additional coats of clear yields the worn but “maintained” appearance that they were targeting. The medium gray basecoat color is the primary influence. For a “newer” appearance we would go with a darker gray.

Once you’re satisfied and the clear is cured, apply your weatherin

9

Hello Antonio,

thank you for your quick reply and for your detailed instructions.

From what I read, and from a cost-savvy point of view, it seems I could use #303 Clear Coat for everything: on top of the gray primer, to seal the metal finish and to seal the decals. Does it make sense?

And, in case I want to dull the shine I can just apply additional coats of again the same Clear Coat. Looks like I better get 2 bottles of that one!

While I love seeing weathered models, I’m always extremely scared to do that on mines. Using acrylics sounds like a very good (and reversible) option. Which type/brand would you recommend? What do you use to dilute and to remove them?

Thank you,

Guido

10

Guido,

Give passenger car weathering a try!

There are plenty of choices as far as waterbased paints. I’ve been using Pollyscale colors that, generally, resemble earth tones like these pictured here:

I thin them into very runny washes (70% to 100%) that can be applied either by airbrush or paintbrush. Although I’m generally an airbush painter, I find that weathering by hand (for me) is fun and more challenging. With the paint being very thin, capillary enables the paint to get into many of the tiny nooks and crannies that, otherwise, would be unnoticeable on an un-weathered frame or body…

I first weather the underframes and trucks using vertical strokes with paint brushes, alternating with colors until I get the basic “Southeastern USA” look of light colored earths with fine streaks of rust.

For the Alcladded bodies, I apply the washes with vertical strokes on

  1. On each of the end walls next to the diaphram.

  2. The diaphram striker plates.

  3. On the bottom 2 or 3 pleats of the fluting.

BTW: Although I generally use Pollyscale, you can also use water based paints from other manufacturers.

The key point to remember is that if you go overboard, just use a clean cotton cloth (t-shirt material) soaked with water and simply wipe off the excess paint.

Practice, on an old Athearn Blue Box passenger car. Do one side at a time and you’ll wind up enjoying “fine tuning” yourself for specific looks.

[quote user=“idrive”]

Hello Antonio,

…

11

I’m going to start experimenting on a couple of freight cars, if all goes well I might try it on the Alcladded Budd.

I began stripping the Budd RDC Shell but, man, that paint is tough! It’s been 2 days in isopropyl alcohol and I’m still having a hard time getting the paint off. I’m also using an old toothbrush to scrub it off so I don’t scratch the surface.

Next I’ll add some details, and then I’ll get my hands on the Alclad painting.

Thank you again for your help,

Guido

12

Guido,

Glad you’re going to give it a try.

One thing that’s puzzling. That paint on the RDC is tough? Are you using 91% Isopropyl alcohol or 70% percent? The 91% alcohol usually makes the paint on the older run Proto RDCs float off. If you use 70% alcohol, the process will take longer.

13

AntonioFP45,

that’s a good question… [:)] The bottle only says Isopropyl Alcohol, and that’s all I could find from the home improvement chains around here.

The shell has been soaking in it for 4 days now, and there’s still paint on it. From what you say I guess it’s 70% alcohol, I’ll take a look if I can find the 91% type on the internet.

On Friday I placed my order for Alclad, I’ll let you know how it goes (and I’ll call for help in case of need).

Thank you,

Guido

14

Guido,

Did you check the pharmacy or drug stores in your area and asked if they had 91% isopropyl available?

Since medical professionals often use alcohol for sterilizing, perhaps you could check with your doctor’s office or even a local hospital and ask the personnel where they obtain their 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol from.

From what you’ve stated in your email, you are in Europe. I just did a bit of internet checking and I was surprised to learn that although 91% and 99% alcohol are readily available in the USA, they’re not so easily available in other countries.

…

For the moment, test your soaking model by scrubbing it with a clean toothbrush. If the paint doesn’t come off then it’s possible that you may be using 50% isopropyl alcohol. One problem with all isopropyl alcohols is that they become weaker while sitting in open air. So if you are using 50% or 70% isopropyl alcohol, it’s a good idea to seal the container that the shell is sitting in.

Another alternative: There is a product made by Testors called “ELO Paint and Decal Remover”. It’s more expensive than alcohol but effective. Many hobby shops around the world carry Testors products.

15

Anotnio,

it looks like here in Italy 91% is something for space-agency-labs only. All you can find is unspecified-% alcohol and perfume bottles among the deep-cleaning products.

The one I have softens the paint, and I scrub it off with a toothbrush. In some areas (the plows and the doors) the paint gets kind of bubbly and peels away very fast, in other areas (the corrugated roof and side fluting) it tends to stick much more. Today I’ll look for a stiffer toothbrush, maybe it’ll help. I’m also scrubbing with a small piece of wood, it helps a lot to break-in the paint and to remove the blue (BC Rail) stripes.

Got the Alclad paints this morning: gray primer, polished aluminum and honey primer clear base. Maybe by next weekend the shell will be clean and I can try some painting.

16

For all Italy and Europe based modellers, I was able to find 99% isopropyl alcohol from an online store selling supplies for furniture restoration. It looks like it’s used to remove old paint from antique cabinets. It evaporates very quickly, so I’m not sure if I could also use it as a thinner for model paints.

Last night I couldn’t wait and dipped the toothbrush in the alcohol and started rubbing: the paint came off the Budd shell like pencil under a rubber eraser.

Looks like next weekend I might be able to try the Alclad.

17

Idrive,

Very glad that you were able to obtain the more effective isopropyl alcohol. 99% should work quite nicely.

Just a suggestion…consider posting the name of the business where you obtained it so that other modelers in your region can purchase it as well since it’s generally difficult to find.

18

Antonio,
Wow, your projects look great & yout tips are excellent.
I have not done any painting in quite some time & am really missing it.
I have a few Alclad Projects lined up, a couple are funny plays on scale, but I will hopefully get to them soon.

Thanks again to keeping us up to date, with your new trends, information, & findings.
I for one, really appreciate it!

Thanks,

19

Sure! Sorry I didn’t do it right away.

http://www.restauro-online.com/epages/63807438.sf/it_IT/?ObjectPath=/Shops/63807438/Products/110/SubProducts/110-0001

The website is available in Italian only, the link above points to the product page. It’s available in 1lt and 5lt bottles.

Guido