I have made my layout in sections so if I ever move, I can split it up easily and take it with me. (I’ve learnt from experience here).
I tried to make all ‘across the section’ joins on a straight section of track but, not all joins are on the straight. Some of the joins are on curves.
What are some of your methods for aligning the tracks at joins between layout sections?
The biggest thing is to make sure that the adjacent sections go back together within a few thousandths of an inch, both horizontally and vertically. One way, when the ends are fastened together with clamps or screws, is to drill all the way through both and install bushings that are a tight (but not force) fit for a standard size bolt. Two such will secure anything short of four feet wide.
Next, make sure the rail ends can’t move. My method of choice is to run a brass flat-headed screw to rail-base level under each rail end, tweak for perfect tracking and solder the rail ends to the screws.
Finally, batter the ends of each rail joint to eliminate the sharp corner at the top inside of the railhead. Just a single swipe of my big file, with minimal pressure, cuts a facet about 1/2mm wide and perhaps five times that length. If you can run a finger across the rail gap and nothing snags, you’ve got it right.
I have curved tracks (24 inch radius) that cross the border between the, ‘Mainland,’ and my removable yard throats at odd angles. I have been backing trains across them (into spur staging yards) for a couple of years now, with no derailments and no problems.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
An alternative idea for your thoughts: check out the Free-mo.org for their joint specs. Basically they setback each side of the joint 1" and use a 2" filler piece with joiners on both ends. They use straight, but I have also made curved ones to match the radius…no problems, and this takes care of any minor discrepancies in alignment. John
Sounds like what I’ve done on my layout, only I back off 1.5 inches from either side of the joint and then use a 3-inch section over the joint.
Kevin
SInce it sounds to me like you are not going to be moving the layout in the foreseeable future, I would lay the sections of track across the joints and only cut them when it comes time to move. Carefully use a Dremel tool to make a clean cut. Make sure the track on either side of the joint is very secure to the roadbed so that it does not shift while cutting.
John Timm
Cut the track later, just make sure you leave some slack in your buss lines at each joint, then if you have to move if you used stranded wire you can just join them together with Posi-taps. Alot of organisations get carried away with interfaces for wiring (know one group that uses a special connector a $5 a pop or more with each end needing two).
I also laid the track normally, and then went back and severed the rails close to each of the boundaries of my four modules. I am not under any illusions about damage…I anticipate that I will have to repair some tracks, but with care that can be minimized. Meanwhile, with the layout assembled in its original state, I can enjoy the alignment that was afforded to the trains by laying track elements across any boundaries or module joints.
-Crandell
Thanks for all the suggestions,
I’m going to use a mixture of the suggestions. On the main line, I’ll just cut the track at the joins as they are mostly on the straight. On the branch line which has a removable section to get at my staging, I’ll use the free-mo idea with a short section of track to bridge the gap.
cheers
This topic comes up quite frequently. I have a couple connections on a curve. In one instance I actually used a piece of curved sectional track (19" radius in N-scale).
Some past threads on this topic with lots of discussion:
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/59052/735885.aspx#735885
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/59052/735887.aspx#735887
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/165316/1818972.aspx#1818972
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/74027/892912.aspx#892912
I bolted all my sections together. Next I mocked up my track to see where my track connections and switches were going to fall. I went ahead and tweaked the track layout so no turnouts or track connections landed within 2" of a break. Once everything laid out OK, I went ahead and laid roadbed and track. Then I cut my breaks in with a fine dremel blade. These also work well for power blocks too. To make sure everything would line up straight every time, I used common interior door hinges. I screwed the intact hinge to each section. When it comes time to move a section all I have to do is unbolt each section and pull the hinge pin. To put em back together I bolt them together and install the hinge pin. It has to line up the sections in the same place every time. You can see the hinge in this picture (I was in the mock up stage when the photo was taken) 
I hope this helps ratled