Well, I FINALLY got that switch to work. So, without further adeu, here are pics of the almost completed shelf layout. Please see the end of the topic, as I have some questions that I’d like feedback on…
Overview of the layout…with my new trusty soldering gun getting rdy for it’s last burst of track attachment and wire attachement. The ole steamer is sidelined…that darn screw that was bent finally fell out, and I really need to get a new one.
Nice shot of one of the straight runs with the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. Don’t use liquid nails! PITA. Just use Elmer’s Carpenter’s glue…worked great!
How I snipped the foam on the curve. To be honest…once I started using the elmer’s glue…it really didn’t need snipping that much. The liquid nails took too long to get tacky.
My siding with uncoupler/accessory track. Looking for a suggestion here…what would be a good accessory here?
The wiring is running into the bookcase, down the inside, and to several terminal strips. I need to turn the transformer to face correctly in the bookcase, but have it turned to mock up wiring, etc. Any thoughts/suggestions here?
This is how I secured the wire underneath the shelving. I’m hoping with the facing I’m gonna put on the front of
Try fastening the wiring to the underside of the shelves with staples. 3/8" staples should hold just about any size wiring securely. It’s quicker, easier and less messy than glue yet will still give you the option of removing wires if needed.
How about a 30 degree angled panel board to fit inside one of the bookshelves. You could fasten the panel board to the shelf with new style roller drawer hardware, allowing the unit to be pulled out when in use. Mount the tranformer to the panel board leaving room up front for future control toggles and buttons. Your buss bar can be mounted on the shelf unit where it will be hidden by the panel board when closed. Use flexible stranded wire to connect your transformer to the buss bar where needed.
Off the top of my head I’m thinking a #38 water tower, some type of coaling tower and a station with a few platforms for your siding area.
I wouldn’t go with kitty-litter for ballast especially if you are going to glue it down using the diluted white glue method. In stead I would use either chicken grit(small) or roofing granules from a roofing supply house, with the latter method you can even choose the color.
On the subject of the curve, I would use a jig saw to round the shape to fit the track. Any open spaces can be filled in with scrap plywood supported underneath by 1X stock.
For ballast you can use fish tank gravel. You can mix and match colors to get your desidered effect. For ground cover you can use ground wallnut shells, also available at pet supply stores.
First off KUDOs to you on the work you did. Looks great and will be fun to run. On your balast choice, I just went with Lizard litter or bird litter. It is made up of crushed up very fine walnut shells and has no dust. It was written up in Feb. CTT and works great with the elmers glue technique. I paid $20 dollars for 50# of it so I have lots for whole layout. As suggested to me by another forum member when you go to finish it off and want a grey look to your balast next to the rails, just simply add some acrlic paint to the 50-50 mixture of glue and water. Looks great. As far as bench work you might want to rip a few 3/4 inch thick pieces about an inch wide and either glue and screw them to the underside of your plywood. It would give it more strength and also hide any of your wires. Keep us posted.
Great job! I think that that long passing siding needs a 362 barrel loader and/or a 364 log loader! I look forward to seeing more photos. Keep up the good work.
yes, that passing siding would be a great place for operating accessories.
As far a scenery goes, with the tight space, I would use the flat backdrops similar to what I have been using. You’ve also got a bunch of corners, and the 3-d city streets really give your layout depth.
Absolutely glue the ballast, whatever material you use, and add a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent to the water/glue mix - it will help make teh mixture slick enough to run to the bottom and hold all the ballast --and your track – in place.