Hi guys….Long time lurker here. You’re knowledge have helped me immensely throughout the years. Time to post, now that I’m retired now. 
I run mostly tinplate on 0-31 tubular track.
My 154c contactor , I think, is the culprit for a few of my later Lionel and MTH steamer’s lead trucks derailing. I have changed contactors and moved it around a bit to no avail.
My plan B is to remove the 10” straight and replace it with a couple of half straight insulated tracks…plugged into each other. Has anyone else tried this?
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Well, I can’t say that I’ve tried doing something of that nature. The idea seems sound, and probably more reliable in operation than the original contactor. However, I don’t like the original contactor design in the first place–the two adjacent switches seem a little cheesy to me–and I think that therefore better, more realistic flashing could be obtained with a regular insulated section, a relay, and a flashing circuit. (2pcs Compact Circuit Board Flasher to Flash Crossing Signals Alternately PCB006 | eBay). Such is my recommendation.
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All you have to do is pry up one outside rail, add insulators and tighten the tabs back down. You can do it on any section of track, including curves, and make as long or short an insulated section you want. I use wood dowels as track pins. It’s the best way to activate signals, gates and gateman.
However, I’ve never tried it on an original 154. Mine is a modern version with electronics so I’m not sure how well it would work to alternate the flashing the way the 154C does. You might want to make a pair of one inch long insulated tracks to simulate the blade of the 154C.
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Thx so much! I was kicking around coming up with some sort of rig using a DPDT relay…but I just ordered the electronic one you posted.
I thought that 2 insulated tracks was a little dicey.
Besides I already have too many insulateds now.
Tired of making ‘em.
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Don’t forget that you still will need a relay and insulated track section, or some other form of detection.
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I had planned on the insulated section with the electronics…but a relay also?
Is that for a cleaner activation?
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The circuits run on DC and therefore will not be able to (safely) ground immediately through the track what with the AC. However, now that I think of it, you could also use a rectifier instead of a relay.
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Thx. All of my other accessories which use an a/c coil I have used bridge rectifiers to cut down on the racket. I was so delighted with your suggestion I didn’t realize the board used a DC input. So now I know!
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Sure–just wire in a rectifier and it’ll be just fine! I’m looking forwards to seeing the setup when it’s done, as I can’t say that I’ve tried it myself (but need to one of these days).
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Hey, that’s sweet. Gonna try the electronic version this time. I’ll let you guys know how it works out.
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The resistor is for LEDs, which usually run on very little voltage. It should be unnecessary for the signal, or, for that matter, any accessory that uses regular bulbs (14v, if I recall correctly, but they should work properly on the slightly lower output of the circuit).
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Thx, Engine!
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You’re welcome!
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Still trying. 
. I have finally wired up the recommended board to my layout.
It is powered by a bridge rectifier. To power the rectifier I have used one leg off of the insulated
track section, (common) and the other from the middle rail.
154 signal is powered as depicted in the wiring diagram. Only problem is that both lights on the 154 are illuminated. Either wired to the layout, or on the bench using a multimeter. I have yet to see any alternating. Both pos legs stay powered. I tried two different boards, btw. This is about the depth of my electronics knowledge. Just enough to be dangerous.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Taking a break. I have a date with my snowblower.
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I would give the rectifier fixed voltage (but still ground it through the outer rail, of course). That probably won’t fix the issue, but it would improve operation.
So, let’s see if it’s wired correctly. Firstly, here’s the original wiring diagram.
Now, in the photo, the output labeled as common anode should be connected to the terminal labeled 1 in the diagram. Obviously, you can ignore the 154C shown in the diagram. Each of the outputs labeled as cathode can be connected to 1 and 2. If that is all right, then you may want to try fiddling with the flash rate adjuster on the circuit board. If none of that works, then we’ll figure out more later.
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Thx. I have pondered using fixed voltage from a O22 thats nearby. I have had this whole setup on the bench with the same result Both “positive “ legs show constant voltage. Also on the layout actually connected to the 154, and both tungsten lamps illuminate at the same time, nothing alternating.
I guess the pot is a variable resistor (?) and I have also fiddled with that to no avail.
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Interesting. All that I can think of is that it doesn’t like rectified voltage (some circuits are too nitpicky for “close enough” DC) or that you have a faulty board–which, since you tried both of them, is somewhat unlikely. I do have a question–in your testing, did it ever receive more than 12 volts?
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I think it provided more than 12. Ill chk tonight. I ll look for another 12v source. I may go back to plan B wired like you did. But this prob is kind of intriguing.
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