I think I need some help. I have a Pasche airbrush. I have been struggling learning how to paint with it. I have been trying to spray Badger NH Warm orange. It either sprays too thick or too thin. I think my problem is in the thinning of the paint. Does anyone have any suggestions?
My suggestion would be to experiment with mixtures that are 10, 25, and 50 % thinner. Try to measure these mixtures as accurately as possible using eye droppers or small measuring spoons to conserve the amount of paint you use just trying to find the best mixture. If you are using an aircompressor to drive the brush you can also try varying the pressure from 25 to 50 psi. Also make sure the brush is clean by running pure thinner through it. R. Vollmar
I try to keep the airbrush clean. I guess I’ll need to do some more trial and error with the paint mixing. Do you think I’m not mixing the paint long enough to ensure the thinner and paint are completely mixed? I guess I should buy a regulator for my compressor. Thanks for the help R. Vollmar.
A regulator is good…
Paint for spraying should have the consistancy of milk.
The tip of the airbrush should be around 8" away from the work.
Two thin coats are better than one thick coat.
And, last, I’ve seen some REALLY stupid folk do REALLY good work with an airbrush!!!
Allan Lees
I’m in the same boat as you. I got a Badger 150, compressor, pressure valve and moisture trap. I either get too much paint of not enough. If I have a break through, I’ll let you know. I’d be nice to actually see someone do it that knows what they are doing. I have several paint projects waiting to go, ant it is holding up the progress of the layout.
I’ve seen some people too stupid to do much else produce outstanding work with an airbrush. If your airbrush is clean, it is either your paint mixture or air pressure, as has been said. I’ve never had a problem with Floquil, but Polly S will sometimes block the thing up. That problem turned out to be too much air pressure, essentially drying out the paint before it reaches the model, or even gets out of the airbrush. I put a regulator (with gauge) on the compressor and started using Polly S thinner rather than distilled water, and have had decent results since.
I have a Paasche, too. They are pretty easy to disassemble to clean out. If you haven’t done that already, try it to makes sure the thing is squeeky clean.
Take a look at the needle and aircap size. Paasche air brushes usually come with dif. sized nozzle and needles. If you have a model VL it comes with a number 1,3 and 5 if purchased as a kit. The number 1 is the smallest. If that is what is in the airbrush you might try changing out the setup to the next size. Be very careful when changing needles because they can be bent very easy. I have good luck with my Paasche. I’ve used it for scenery and weathering my cars. I dont consider myself an artist by all means. With a few adjustments you should see better results. I havent been to Paasche’s web sight for a while, but they might have some how to guides available online. I know my airbrush came with one when new. Hope I was of help. Dave
I’m not familiar w/ the paint your using (acrylics, laqs) but it will undoubtedly take time for you to get the hang of mixing your paints…after painting for some years now I still need to experiment, although the paints I use (water-based acrylics) are pretty easy to spray. Once you play w/ a particular type of paint, you’ll get used to thinning/thickening and you’ll be able to mix w/o thinking twice. Steve
no one has mentioned air pressure. If you keep that constant you can then vary the paint viscosity to match the air presure. Once you figure it out you will be fine.
If I can airbrush, anyone can! It just takes practice. You’ll get the hang of it. Pretty much every brand of paint takes its own ratio of paint to thinner. I’ve found that even within the same brand some variation of thinning is needed. I pretty much start a little on the thick side and slowly add thinner until it’s where I want it to be.