Since electricity is not one of my best knowledge bases, I am asking for some basic help on track wiring my AF layout. I am o.k. on wiring my 3-rail O gauge layout, but have no experience on the 2-rail variety. I am adding a small dog bone shaped AF layout on top of the back end of my O gauge layout. None of the Greenberg wiring manuals I own cover 2-rail AC wiring.
Specifically, what do I need to do that’s different from the 3-rail wiring in regard to insulated blocks and reversing loops? I did get a Gilbert AF reversing loop relay on Ebay recently. It actually arrived with instructions, but I’ll probably need 3 semester hours of study to figure it out.
A.F. two rail is similar to H.O. in wiring the track, however you will need differant power clips if you want to use the style that is similar to Lionel’s CTC lockon, use the UTC or universal lockon has two places for the outside rail to go into.
Another thing about A.F. switches, if they were made by AC Gilbert the switch has a little flip switch on that has the words “two train, regular” normally used in regular mode, two train mode is when hooking up for a siding.
Far as doing a reversing loop I have not done one. Maybe sturgeonphish or other A.F. guys can help you with it.
Basically one rail is hot (variable voltage) and the other the base or ground. Most of the time the outer rail is base but it does not need to be.
The reverse relay switches the polarity to run out and back through a switch witout causing a short.
From the relay take the red wire from the relay to the red post on switch, (from the Y the posts go black red yellow green), green to green and black to black. From the other end of the relay, connect the red to the variable voltage rail before the switch, and the black wire to the base rail in front of (approaching ) the switch. Take the yellow wire from the relay to the base rail on the turn out leg of the switch rail and the green wire to the base rail on the straight through part of the switch.
An insulating pin goes in the base rail on the straight through part of the switch on the loop side (just after) the switch, and another insulating pin in the variable voltage rail in the turnout part of the switch. Place the insulating pins just after the switch and the wire taps after the insulated pins. The polarity transfer happens after the switch and pins in the loop.
Make sure the switch is set for “two train operation” with the little silver button.
Find an AF instruction book somewhere that you can download or maybe one og the guyshere can do it. The reverse loop is important to cover correctly due the the reverse of polarity when the track loops back onto itself. Typically in the old days you would use a DPDT switch to change the polarity once the train entered the loop from one direction so the train would not stop once it comes out of the loop. In HO you use an Atlas controller or the like you could check the website to do the same thing. Set up this way I think you would need manual intervention. You could also add a solenoid to the circuit that would automaticallly throw the dpdt switch at the right time based on track contactors etc. I ain’t not no espert though so your best bet is to find an AF manual. I’ll see if I can dig one out, but would have to wiat till I go back to work to send a copy out.
Thanks for the info. I do have Gilbert switches with the two-train buttons. I figured there would be some differences between 2- and 3-rail tracks. You have provided a wealth of info for me to get started. But I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions as the wiring progresses.
Thanks. I’ll let you know what I run into when I start. One thing I had planned on doing was soldering wires to the track instead of lock-ons. I do have the two types of lock-ons you mentioned. Looks like one connects to one track rail while the other connects to both.
Re an unrelated subject: Do you know if there is a commonly available control button to operate AF uncouplers? I have several of these uncouplers with no controllers. At the moment there is only one up for auction on Ebay.
You are correct, the 690 with the two connectors and the 707 with the one connector.
I’ve soldered a lot of my drops, but something else that works good is to slightly spread the rail(s) from the underside with a very small screwdriver just wide to insert a spade connector bent at a right angle, or leave straight and drill through the layout top. If it is a little too wide close it up with pliers. It works best in the center portion of the rail, but you can just about tap it in anywhere so long as it does not interfer with the connector pins.
Any of the momentary contact buttons will work for the uncouplers. The old plain style, even old for American Flyer that do not have “lables” work well and go inexpensive on Ebay.
I finally got the relay wired. But one thing is not clear to me: three of the relay wires go to the switch terminals. Do I add the normal switch controller wires to the switch as well? Or does the relay operate the switch?
Congratulations. I hope the instructions helped. I summerized them from a book I had. I have not done the hook up myself. It is my understanding the relay operates the switch at the instant the poliarity is reversed on the loop.