I have done one smoke unit but my results were so so at best. It works but not great. When you remove the old wick do not remove the insulation that covers the metal walls of the well the coil sits in. The wick may be stuck to the card stock insulation so caution is advised. When threading the new wick down through the holes moisten the wick with smoke fluid and it will make the task easier. Make sure that none of the coils touch and that the coil doesn’t have too much extra wire between it and the solder posts on the cover. This is where I goofed I left too much wire there.
Dougs instructions are pretty good. If you saturate the wick during assebly it will help later. Some actualy enlarge the holes where the wick passes through for more fluid flow. I have not done this butI may sometime as an experiment.
Look carefully at the coils around the wick and ensure thay do not over lap. Then take the lead ends of wire and pass it several times through the eye of the lugs and a drop of solder to hold it in place.
After you remove the old wick and insulator box, do yourself a favor and drill those two holes out a bit. I can’t remember what size bit I used, but it was the biggest size I could use to enlarge the holes without contacting the wall next to them. Enlarging the holes makes life easier when threading the new wick to the lower chamber, and also improves output. Be sure to check for overlap as Jim said. Also, I have found that new elements sometimes need to be adjust for best results. Check the resistance across the coil and remove turns if needed until the resistance is 30-40 ohms. These range seems to provide great output and element life.
Most of the time, they come out without issue. Sometimes though, they are are a bit stubborn and will rip if you pull too hard. They are available from parts dealers.