I am researching different roadbeds for my HO layout and have noticed that AMI has a lot of good reviews on this forum. I have found on discounttrains.com a roadbed made by Woodland Scenics. Is it any good? Does it compare to AMI? It is about 75% cheaper than AMI, I know that much. I can get about 220’ for 50.00 vs 210’ of AMI for 140.00. Is it worth it?
Ross
Buffalo, NY
This is a good question… I’d like to know as well since I’m ready to buy roadbed, too.
another interested party – AmI’s web site offers some info. but I wonder what method can be used to lay the roadbed so it conforms to trackplan – It’s real easy with cork!
They are both excellent products. With AMI, you don’t need anything else. With WS you need adhesive, I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue, (from Wal-Mart in the crafts section). Aleene’s seems to be the same or very similar to the WS adhesive with the same name, but at a much lower price. WS also needs to be slit down the middle, like cork, AMI just unrolls.
All roadbeds are scenic elements. As such, you can do a lot better than spending that sort of money on it. Personally, I’m using 1/2" foam insulation, cut into 1-3/8" wide strips. Two strips make for one piece of roadbed, which I them bevel to the proper track profile. Total cost is $6 and my time.
AIM does have a lot of adherents, mostly because of it’s ease of use. You don’t need any adhesives to lay it or the track. I’ve also heard some very BAD things about it, like it doesn’t hold well, it lifts, and it never dries. I’ve never used the stuff myself, so you might want to find a modeler that’s actually using it and poke at his stuff to see how it looks and works. I don’t mind glueing, so I’m sticking with my homemade roadbed!
I recently tore down my old layout and started rebuilding another (12’X14’ in HO). I am using WS roadbed and gluing it down with adhesive caulk. I have not had to cut the roadbed in half, like with cork, using this method. The minium curve radius is 28". I have bought some of Aileens tacky glue, but have not tried that yet. The caulk works fine. When I get around to trying the tacky glue, I will post on how it works.
Paul
If AMI does lift, there are ways to renew it. The Reid Brother’s famous layout has used AMI and it has been in place for years.
A way to save money on AMI is to buy the scale above yours and cut it in two. So you would buy O scale AMI and cut it length wise (pizza cutter works best). I bought HO AMI for my N scale layout and did this. This technique cuts the cost of AMI in half.
The benefits of AMI are the obvious, its easy to lay and track is easy to lay on top of it. But the part that was important to me is the ability to change your mind and move it once it is down. I changed my mind several times in laying the first 1/3 of my track on my layout and was able to make the change easily with AMI. If I had been using a roadbed that was glued with white glue or what have you, it would have ruined the road bed and been a hassle. Because AMI was so easy for a “mind change”, it encouraged me to fix mistakes I might have let slide with other road beds.
Actually I have successfully placed and re-placed the WS roadbed. I too use Aleene’s Tacky Glue (just a thicker version of Elmer’s Glue) and when I discovered the track needed to be moved, just lifted the track (which I nail down) and used a thin plastic scraper to scrape up the roadbed. It got a couple of nicks but except for a short section it was easy to re-lay and re-glue with no ill effects.
Ross, after having used the AMI, it is quite easy to use. You can easily curve it to match any radius you wish. Since I was unfamiliar with the product, I ended up using only 12 inch sections at a time and used the backing paper as a shim between the track and the roadbed until I was absolutely sure it was where I wanted it. The directions tell you not to use lengths greater than 36 inches. I believe the reason for this is so you can drop feeders down through the roadbed to the track bus. They tell you not to drill through it so the 36 inch spacing must be for this reason.
Also, you can flatten out the edges with your fingers to meet the ground. What ever you do don’t let this stuff double over on itself without having the backing paper attached. It sticks like glue to itself. Hope this helps.
Larry
Ross,
A few other things came to mind after my initial message. My layout is presently a point to point with parallel tracks. Before putting down the AMI roadbed, my layout was soldered together and pinned in place so it wouldn’t move. It’s probably easier to use this roadbed if you don’t have to worry about track sections coming apart. Since I was running parallel tracks, I only used AMI on my mainline track. I adjusted the distance between the remaining track and the AMI track accordingly to maintain equal centering.
larryB
I’m using N-Scale WS roadbed on my HO layout, becuase I didn’t want the big profile that the “correct” size roadbed would give me. On the N-Scale roadbed, the HO ties go right to the edge, and it is thinner than the HO roadbed as well.
I used caulk to glue the roadbed to the homosote subroadbed, and the same adhesive caulk to attach the track to the roadbed. It was very easy to work with, and track laying went quickly.
All that being said, I probably won’t use foam roadbed in the future. I like to handlay at least some of my trackage. On this particular layout, I had to hand lay two curved turnouts and one odd angle crossing. Handlaying this track was harder than it had to be, becuase the foam roadbed doesn’t hold spikes. I ended up gluing wood ties to the foam roadbed, and then using CA ahdesive to adhere PC Board ties to those wood ties where they needed to be so I could then solder the rail to the PC Board ties.
So I’d say, if you are using pre-fab track, including flex track, then the WS roadbed is great. If you think you’ll need to handlay track, then you’ll probably want to use something else in those sections.
John
Underhill, VT
I used the woodland scenics foam roadbed on my layout. It glues down well and takes ballast easily. The only problem I have found is that my heavy steam locos (Big Boys, Challengers) tend to pu***he track down and outward on curves, eventually loosening the ballast and allowing the track to shift (just like the real thing). Works fine with the diesels and my smaller steam locos, however.
In my quest for the “PERFECT” method (which does not exist). The winner in my case is 1/2" OSB, Homosote, and CORK FLOORING cut in strips. I found some PEEL AND STICK and also some “U GLUE-IT”. Using an Xacto knife and a hopme made template for special stuff (Turnouts etc.) I have found it labor intensive, LOW COST and great to play with. Totls cost for a 22’ x 18’ with over 650 ft of track (cork $26.00).
I tried AHM CORK, Atlas CORK, AMI, WS and went with what I have. The biggest factor was the local club had the problem on the n-trax of the weathering wa***hey use rotting AMI and WS and turning the NORMAL cork brittle. They use a alky and india ink mix.
Claycts is right about alcohol and india ink combinations. Since alcohol is a drying agent, it should be used to weather ballast in concentrations no greater that 70% and applied in several light coats using an airbrush. AMI roadbed is nothing more than uncured rubber.
I can only speak for WS. I have used it and like it. I have never used AMI but WS gets my vote, simply b/c I am familiar with it and liked it.
If you built a helix like I did on my layout the ami roadbed seems to be the best. It is self sticking whick makes it easy to put down and the track will stick to it with out using any nails. Plus it is thinner than cork whick in a helix is a big plus. On my scenic track I went with the cork which I think once you paint and ballast the track looks a little better than the ami. I never tried the woodland scenic road bed.
I haven’t used AMI, but I love WS foam raodbed. SO easy to work with.
Bill
I have used ami extensively and it is a good product. someone noted earlier that you can buy the next guage up and then split into two to save money - this works but konw that the O guage cut in half results in two narrower strips than the HO roadbed.
Also AMI is excellent when you need to keep track still - AMI doesn’t lift if you apply ot to a clean surface. It also easily simulates blacktop comes in grey or can be painted grey for consrete.
another option is insulation tape - which I believe a little more than 2" wide and comes in 30’ rolls for around $7 bucks at home depot - the catch is that this is adhesive on one side only - so you would still have to tack/glue your track down - the next step up from this is the two sided cap topper tape - really the same as insulation tape but often comes with ahesive on both sides
good luck
I recall that an N-scale project railroad in MR (5-6 years ago?) used AMI roadbed and they were very unhappy with it.
i used ami roadbed on my n-scale layout and also cork and woodlands foam .ami is far better take your time and you won’t be disappointed. steve