I was looking at this product in the LHS today and just reading the box it sounds pretty good. If I understood it right it was kinda tacky on the top and the bottom, tacky enough… they said… to hold track in place. Is that correct? Even flex track on a curve?
The shop was pricing this at $19.95 U.S. for a 30 foot roll, if I remember right. Have you used it and do you like it and did the tackyness really hold the track with no problem?
Jarrell
I have used it and found it to be a great product!. My layout does not have flex track, so I am not sure how it works with flex track. My guess is it works well with flex track.
The product is sticky on both sides. The track sticks to it well–so well, that after I placed it down, it took some gentle effort to lift up the track from the roadbed. I have had it down now for a month, and the track has not moved at all. The LHS where I bought it from had a test sample that was 7 years old, and the track was still holding to the AMI Instant roadbed.
The only problem I incountered is the product can become very sticky if it gets too warm. When I was placing down the roadbed, my A/C was out in the apartment, so my hands ended up sticking to the roadbed (I should of waited until the A/C was fixed). Even with that problem, things still went very well.
I hope this is helpful!
Steve
Thanks Steve, that is very helpful. When it comes time to put down roadbed I just may order this!
Jarrell
I used AMI on a portion of my shelf railroadand found it worked really well. Planning is everything. I initially got my layout the way I wanted it along with the spacing between parallel tracks and then soldered the flextrack joints. The track was also pinned so I could work in sections without the track moving around. This way I knew the the joints wouldn’t open up when I started adding the AMI Roadbed. The roadbed comes with a paper backing so it is partially movable so you can position it. I used 36" sections to keep it managable with the paper side up so it would’nt stick to the track. I also used shim material where the Roadbed came in contact with the 2" foam base. As I worked down the 36" section, I would pull out the shims and make sure the bed followed the general direction of the track. Lastly, I pulled the backing paper off and stuck the track to the roadbed. One good thing about road bed is that you can squish out the sides to flatten it out against the surface of the base. You don’t have the angled cut to contend with as would with cork… Also I think the over all height profile of AMI is lower than cork.
Any inconsistancies can be adjusted out by squeezing down on one side or another of the roadbed or by adding a small strip of additional roadbed. When it is all ballasted, it looks really good.
I’ve been using it and I like it! If you can get some old MRs or the old Allen Keller video on the Reid brothers’ layout, it’s done entirely with AMI Instant Roadbed and it is generally considered to be a great layout. You can shape it like modeling clay under certain circumstances. A lot of possibilities there.
;o) Ed
Thanks Larry and Ed, it does sound like a good product and I like being able to ‘shape’ it a little.
I appreciate the answers.
Jarrell
Wonderful product I love it. I actually just ventured out of my basement after laying down some. So far so good. Though one word of advice never touch two peices together. I had a piece fold into itself and I could not for the life of me get them apart. Other than being careful with it it’s a great product. The two most experienced modelres in my area use it and always say how easy it is. Let me tell you it is!
Andrew
Thanks Andrew, I think I’ll use it too.
Jarrell
Andrew is right. If two pieces come together, you might as well toss it. I learned that the hard way.
Larry
I have a roll of it and have not used it yet. How is it for sound deadening? Is it as good as Homasoate?
This stuff been out for a while. I DON’T like it. It can be messy if you need to change the location to where you place it. Do not attempt to place this stuff on foam. I would tear it apart. One of the best ways to get your track and ballast to stick to this product is by heat (Blowdryer, ect. ) When you heat it, it becomes gooie and really soft like taffy. Infact it acts just like taffy when pulled apart or seperated. I tried this stuff 2 years ago and I though it was good at first. But if your still planning you layout, it won’t be good for you. I had to flip my bench over because of the black spots it made on the board. It may be good for other things, but not for laying track. Sometime you just can’t cut the steps out for a good looking layout. I’m currently using “Peco” Ballast inlay. mixed with cork roadbed. Ballast Inlay is good because
- It’s preballast with a good range of different color to choose from
- All you have to do is pop in your track. Similar to Atlas roadbed system but the difference in that is that Atlas use palstic roadbed which could create noise.
- It’s made with foam and if your looking for a cut out step in laying track and ballasting it. This is the way to go. It may be expensive to some, but not all
It’s the same thing as automotive AC insulation tape @ $14.00 for a 30 foot roll. That’s what I used.
Willy’s comment about it being the same as automotive AC insulation tape is true, my father (who is an automotive tech. for Dodge) said the exact same words when he saw it.
Where can one buy automotive insulation tape? I am assuming at an auto parts store.
So far I really like the stuff. I have not had it destroy my foam when I repositioned it. After finding it in taffy mode in the heat, I decided not to heat it, and it was less taffy like.
How does this stuff work with turnouts? I’m getting ready to use it myself but don’t want to risk making my turnouts stick in one position for all of eternity.
As for places to buy AC insulation tape, try NAPA autoparts.
Ah, good. I am so glad I came accross this thread. I am starting over and I want to put my layout on the 2" blue foam sheets. I know from my last layout, the cork over the foam was still pretty loud, the WS foam roadbed on the blue foam was extremely quiet, but the tacks do nothing with that set up. a tack going into the WS foam and then into the Blue foam holds nothing. I used caulking for a good section, that held everything, but just made a mess doing it. and you can forget pulling up track from the caulk , the ties stay down, and the rails come up. trashed.
So, the question of the AMI under the turnouts…any answers on that?
Also my question is ballasting, is this stuf sticky enough to hold the ballas without doing the 50/50 glue deal?
Kevin
I think you used either the wrong kind of caulk, or WAY too much.
CHEAP latex caulk is the thing to use. I’ve pulled up and changed sections with no problems. You can’t really reuse the roadbed, but my track came away undamaged and ready to use elsewhere. I’m really not sure why people are using more permanent adhesives like Liquid Nails for tracklaying, it dries hard and defeats most f the sound deadening properties of foam roadbed, and it nearly impossible to remove without breaking the track.
The AMI stuff always struck me as a mess to handle, and I don’t think it’s sticky enough to hold ballast without a little help from the glue and water mix.
–Randy
I used AMI road bed on my last layout and put it away for a very long time. When I got it back out, it was covered in dust, but the track was still stuck in place. No staining, no problems.
I used it and some woodlands senic foam on the next layout with good results. Back to back, the AMI worked better. I still spiked down the curves where I used flex track, but when I had to reposition a couple of sections a sharp putty knife levered it right up without removing the ties. I’m sure like many subjects, this will end up with pages of dissertations, but try it, I think you’ll be impressed. regards, J.R.
AMI roadbed . It is really great and far easier and faster than cork. IMHO it is the way to go.
Art Gordon
I have been leaning on getting it for myself but I wwould like to test the track for a while before I make it permanent… Joseph