ANNOUNCING: James Mitich's Scratchbuilt Model Contest.

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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Hello Everyone,

Well all the feedback is in, and all of the rules finalised. I am now formally announcing my model contest. Here are the rules:

Rules for Entry.

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for considering entering my first scratch built model contest. It is officially titled James Mitich’s Scratch Built Model Contest. I wish you luck with your model and hope you enjoy the time spent and the process involved in building it. To enter follow the following rules. If there are any questions, please email me at GrayhoundChallenger@hotmail.com

Rule 1:
Model construction can not be started before April 1, 2004. The time remaining before the start of construction can be used for research and drawing of plans if deemed necessary.

Rule 2:
The model must be of an item for use on a model railroad. While you need not have a layout to enter this contest, if you do not have a layout, the model should be able to be used on one when built. The model can be of any prototype from any era in any scale.

Rule 3:
The model on its premise must be built from scratch. Kit bashing of major components into a new arrangement is not allowed. Detail parts as outlined in rule 4 may be obtained from kits if found to be suitable.

Rule 4:
Certain manufactured detail parts may be used, as the intent of this competition is to get modelers to pu***he limits of their skills and creativity, not make them endure cruel and unusual punishment. Detail parts allowed are trucks, couplers, windows, doors, motors and drive train components, DCC decoders, grills, fans, railings, walkways, brake gear, hand wheels, and assorted vents. If a certain detail part does not fall under this list, use the “Would a person scratch building what I am use this part” test. If further clarification is desired, email me.

Rule 5:
Decals, both manufactured and homemade, are allowed.

Rule 6:
Clear, In focus, well-lit

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Thank you Grayhound Challenger. We all now know what we are shooting for!

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Allright, looks great![:D]

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Grayhound:

You have a well thought out contest. I’ll enjoy participating and I hope many others well also.

To those of you still sitting on the fence: Have a go, we all will certainly learn lots and have considerable fun as well.

Randy

PS Any input from MR as yet?

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I asked Model Railroader about sponsorship or even possibly just mentioning in the magazine. I was flatly turned down.

However in the spirit that this compitition is supposed to engender, I sent them a copy of the rules and invited the whole staff to participate anyway. We will see if anyone takes the bate.

Again, I wish you all luck with your models and I look foward to seeing what your creative talents can come up with.

James.

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Good timing as far as I’m concerned. I’ll be back from vacation by the end of March so I’ll have time to get things lined up and ready to start.

Looking forward to the competition! [:D]

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Glad the chips are falling into place for you Dave.

Just to let everyone know, I am offering unlimited technicle assisstance to those who feel they need it. I believe Dave here has offered the same.

Again, I look foward to seeing what everyone is doing.

James.

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gives me time to buy a camera i desperately need. these one time use things turn out horrible pictures.

i think i will be entering the contest. i’m glad you have it for 2 months of the summer as i’ll have time to work during the day.

James i think you have convinced me to try this. i haven’t been able to get to the hardware store yet so i’m glad this doesn’t start for awhile. also i’ll be able to get pictures of the gondola sitting in town here. or i’ll just use pictures from the internet to make something simple.

Thanks James

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Hi Jim,

Here is a tip for those that take pictures with one of those one time use cameras. I have managed to get some pretty decent shots shooting the subject outdoors in bright sunlight. A cameral with one of the advanced see through the lens view finder might be advantagous.

One does not need a fancy professional SLR camera to get good pictures. You just need to recognise the limitations of what you are working with and compensate accordingly.

James

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Yes I have offered and would welcome any questions. I’m by no means an expert but do have a broad, well balanced, background in modeling and scratch building.

From Saturday March 6th through Sunday March 21st, I won’t be available to respond to e-mails. However if you have a question and can’t wait for an answer you may drop it by my hotel in Cancun, MX. [:D]

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James,

I’m glad you finally got this thing together. I’ve been wacvhing all the differnet forums about it and they’ve convinced me to try it. Because this is my first attempt at scratch building, and the fact I’m only 12, I don’t know how well it will turn out. If it looks good (what ever I make, I think it’ll be a transfer caboose) I’ll enter it.

Noah[:p][8D][:)]

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well least you are starting before i did. i just got into it at 17 and this is my first attempt at building something.

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Hi Noah,

Glad you have decided to give this a try. Let me give you some advise, if you build it, enter it. The artist is often their own harshest critic. So no matter how much you might be dissatisfied with the model, enter it, you never know what will happen. I wish you luck with your project and look foward to what you come up with. If you have any questions on how to do something. drop a question here on the forum, Me and Dave are offering unlimited assistance to those that ask for it.

Again I wish you luck,

James.

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Noah:

Welcome to the contest.

We all feel just as you are feeling when we sit down at the bench and begin a new project. We all question ourselves at the outset. That part never goes away. Actually, it is part of the fun.

When you begin on day one of the contest just remember to take it one step at a time, measure twice cut once and if you have questions just ask them.

Good Luck

Randy

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Thanks for the good words Randy,

James

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[8D] I’m back and the vacation was GREAT! although I returned with a little eye strain…

It was spring break and the beaches were packed with thousands of, [}:)] nearly naked, [}:)] college girls.

The trip cost me about $500 more than expected… some @#$%&*! stole my digital camera 2 days before we left! It wasn’t so much the camera that upset me but the 176 pics that can’t be replaced. My 13 y/o grandson, daughter and son-in-law went with us. Although I have many great memories I have no pics to share with friends and family.

How’s the contest coming along? With a week until the contest starts does anyone have any “how-to” questions that I can try to help you solve?

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To Dave,
Glad you had a good time on your trip, and glad your back.

Now for my question to all;

I have read about cardstock being used as an alternative to styrene. Is this a very good idea? will it hold up very well, or should I stick with styrene? I just though maybe it would would be cheaper and easyier because the closest hobby shop that carries styrene is 50 miles away, and I only get there once a month or so. Also, what type of card stock should I use if this is a good idea in the first place.

Thanks, Noah[:p]

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Noah,

For structure walls, boxcar siding and areas that need to be flat 3x5 and 5x7 type card stock is very flimsy although it could be used. I have had better sucess using the back off of writting tablets, the front and back covers of steno pads and soda pop 12 pack boxes.

To reflect window and door frames and other structure facade 3x5 or 5x7 card stock would work. These cards are .009" thick which in HO equals about 3/4". Soda pop 12 pack boxes are .019" thick or about 1-5/8 HO inches.

side note: The formula to get scale inches is; inches X scale = scale inches. I.e. HO scale 1:87.1 - .020 x 87.1 = 1.742, or about 1-3/4", N scale is 1:160 - .020 x 160 = 3.2 or about 3-1/4".

My choice as an alternative to styrene is the clear plastic tops from resturant take home boxes. I’ve also found some grocery items are packaged using this clear plastic. It is much stiffer than card stock, very bendable, easy to cut, and works well with CA. After cutting the pieces to size and shape, sand the surface lightly with #600 before assembly to ensure CA and paint adhesion.

AOL likes to waste there money sending me a supply of .050 material. Although not as flexible, CD cases can be used for flat surfaces like structure walls. In HO, 2 CD cases equals 1 small freight terminal. [:)]

For inside corner renforcement and framing I cut strips from popcicle sticks using a hobby knife. Popcicle sticks are .080 (HO = 7", N = 12-3/4"). I model in HO so cutting .080 strips gives me 7"x7" beams. I recently found that Star Bucks stir sticks are .050 thick and are longer than popcicle sticks. I went to my local Star Bucks, told the guy what I wanted them for and he gave me a double fist full. I didn’t figure it out but it must be close to a gazillion board feet of lumber. [:D]

The popcicle sticks I bought in my local crafts store are .38 wide or in HO about 33". Two of then glued together makes 5’6". Great for

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Noah:

I’m working on a structure from a 1950s MR article. It specifies using card stock for trim and roofing. Having put a caliper to several varieties of card stock I can tell you on average it works out to about .010 thick. In HO scale thats a bit less than 1". The thinest plastruct sheeting is also .010.

I opted for the plastic and will cut strip to size as needed. Over several years I think it will hold up better than paper and will accept the water based paints which I use to weather with less likelihood of warping or puckering.

I agree with Dave that there are many many things in the real world which are useful in the modeling world. First step in my view is to make a materials list for your future projects. Second step is to save all those odd bits and pieces which might come in handy. If you see an interesting shape just put it aside, a use will suggest itself eventually.

Randy

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This is just a bump to the top to see if we can get some more people interested in the contest, who may have not have seen this before.

Noah