this is a slightly different question about removing paint from one of these shells. that is are they more difficult? I stripped an Atlas MP 15 and had it down to the bare plastic in 10 min. Then I put in an Athearn SD9. toothbrushed it after I got it out. soaked it again.
The 91% alcohol is in a zip lock bag, which I zipped up pretty quickly in between taking the shells in and out.
So, my question is did the alcohol loose its zip that quick or are athearns just harder to strip, it’s my experience that they are, although this is the first time I’ve taken steps to not let the alcohol evaporate.
The Athearn’s do seem to be a bit harder to strip. I try to get undecorated shells any time I can. I use non-acetone nail polish remover followed by a soak in 91% or stronger alcohol.
Older Athearn paint always came off best with brake fluid. Today that’s not popular because of it’s toxcisity.
Scalecoat and polyscale strippers do a decent job with less toxcisity. These work well with everything but Kato and Kato/Atlas or any other ABS type plastic castings.
I use brake fluid on Athearn body shells. It seems to work quite well. On other manufacturers shells I try a bit of brake fluid on a Q tip in an area that won’t be seen to see if the brake fluid attacks the plastic.
The products listed in the above post work well too.