Hi again - another question about one of these trains. The pictures linked to below are of a F B unit that needs new couplers, but it’s a tad more complicated than that. The couplers are in housings that screw to the frame, and the housings are broken as well. I have close-ups of the couplers below. If anyone could tell me the manufacturer of this, and possibly point me in the direction of couplers, I’d appreciate it.
First off, you have an FA “B” unit.
“F” units were built by EMD, and were 4 axle car body locomotives. “E” units were EMD’s 6 axle car body locomotives.
“FA” units were ALCO’s 4 axle car body locomotives, “PA” units were ALCO’s 6 axle car body locomotives.
“F”, “E”, “FA”, and “PA” were all available as “A” models (with cabs and controls) and as “B” models (without cabs, though many did have hostler controls, to allow movement without being connected to an “A” model)
Your particular model appears to be of an ALCO FA B unit. I don’t recognize the manufacturer, but possibly an Atlas brand. The X2F(horn hook) couplers on it suggest a rather old model. The casting might be hard to find/replace with an identical part, but all hope is not lost, a Kadee #5 draft gear box (Very easy to find) would be an acceptable solution. If you are really Lucky the mounting holes will line up, at least possibly using just the center hole, if the original center screw is not of too large a diameter.
It will likely take some shimming to get a draft gear box to line up without hitting the shell or frame, but it shouldn’t be to difficult. After your DGB is mounted, use a Kadee coupler height gauge to select the proper coupler. Kadee makes couplers with many different height offsets from centered to underset to overset, as well as many different shank lengths, to get your couplers set for proper operation.
The X2F coupler like on your locomotive was the “Standard” NMRA coupler MANY years ago, but the Kadee knuckle style has since become the defacto, if not official “Standard” coupler these days. There are many reasons for that, appearence, reliabity and uncoupling action are among them. It takes time and a small invest to convert a typical collection to knuckle couplers, but most feel it was worthwhile and something they
Just a little better explanation on the “F”/“FA” EMD/ALCO models EMD refered to theirs as either “F” or “E” followed by the model number then the “A” or “B” such as F7-A or F7-B, Alcos were either an FA-1(or -2) or an FB-1(or-2) where the desigination of an “A” or “B” unit preceded the Model number, rather than followed it, as with EMD’s.
EMD, had many more model numbers than ALCO did, ranging from the FT through to the F-9, E units also were numbered though 9. Alco only had FA/PA numbered in 1 and 2 IIRC.
Just a bit more to help more thoroughly confuse you[:S[*-)],
Doug
Snow Mo Joe:
Here is a link to an internet site that shows a similar ALCO F-B Unit painted for Erie-Lackawana RR . @ Bachmann | Product Number BAC64803
http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/HO-Alco-FB2-Diesel-Loco-Erie-Lackawanna/
By Bachmann |
Product Number BAC64803
It is a metal casting. The extra weight is it factory or was it added ?
The Cast Metal versions were popular in the 1950 thru 1970’s. So many are, now discontinued and are going to be major projects to keep running these days.
You sent me back looking in my old HO stuff. I found my F A and my two F B’s which date back to the 1960 or 1970 ear they are by Hobbytown of Boston and are cast shell and separate frame.
This looks more like a Walthers FB-1. I am trying to remember who the original brand was. Maybe Model Power?
I am no expert, but I do not think this is a Bachmann engine.
Rgds IGN