In my search for another small model to make a powering project and all the talk about 3D printing, I ran across a company called Shapeways. They’ll 3D print pretty much anything from user created 3D software models, and they’ve built up a pretty good catalog of unique model railroad items. One of them is a very small GE 20-ton electric used on a few industrial lines, designed by “tschwartz1274”. It was made to be a static model, so naturally, I had to power it.[:D]
There’s the base model, except I’d already removed the 3D printed static wheels. Finding parts to easily and inexpensively make a fitting chassis turned out to be more difficult than I thought, but I eventually came up with this:
It’s a modified Bachmann 44-tonner power truck, with NWSL wheels, the incredibly tiny yet powerful 1215D-9 motor, and some Kadee springs for wipers. This is the original defective truck from my Mack 15-ton project, but I was able to semi-repair the gears, tune it just right, and strengthen it with solid axles and metal axle bearings. It’s not a perfect runner, but it’s still pretty good![:D]
It all just barely fits! The whole model is so tiny that the NWSL 1215D-9 is the only motor I could find that would fit without an extremely complex chassis design, and even with that it’s pretty tight!
The wheelbase isn’t perfect, but it’s close enough! All I need to do now is detail it, paint it, put couplers on, and add a little more weight, and this’ll be a good looking, good running critter![:D]
I’ve powered up a few critters in my time, but nothing like that! WOW! I can see how you can get a coupler in the end opposite the cab, but not that motor end. Probably a moot point, huh? Also, theres still precious room for a little more lead sheet. It’s going to need every gram it can get. Pretty clever stuff, especially the Kadee current pickups.
A loco like that would be fun to build in a larger scale, say 1/24.
What do you think of the quality of the “out of the box” finish of the printed model shell? Did you have to do much finishing to get it to the point shown in your photos?
hon30critter, once I figured out the design, this chassis was actually simpler to build than the one for the Wiseman Mack. If you’re looking for another project, I’d recommend giving it a try!
Southgate, that’s true that there’s little room in the back for a coupler. I’m going to cut the mount off a #58, drill a small hole through the shank, and mount it on a pin, so it’ll still be operational.[:)] And I will be filling every space I can with lead to give it more weight, because it only weighs about 2oz as it is.
G Paine, the out of the box quality is exactly what you see in the photos.[:D] Shapeways cleans and polishes every product that goes out, so a little sanding on the roof and a couple angled spots is all it needs to be perfect. The plastic is tough, but also brittle, so care must be taken. 3D printing is finally approaching the quality of a good injection mold!
Filled it full of lead today, and brought the weight up to about 4oz or so, making it one of my heavier plastic critters.[:D]
I also pulled the wheels out of gauge a bit, because it was having some trouble running over switches. It has that 4-wheel waddle, but it’s a good runner overall.
I thought I’d give a little example of how tiny it is, so here it is next to a Grandt Line 25-ton and an Athearn Hustler.[:D]
Yeah, that’s the one. If you look around that website more, there are a few other pictures too. It isn’t much to go on, but what I’ve seen gives me a good enough idea on how to detail it.
It may be to represnt a gathering reel. Some of these locomotives were had an “extension cord” to allow operation on track not equipped with trolley wire.
From the photos it looks like you have not cleaned the last of the waxy residue off. Soap with warm water carefully scrubbing with a tooth brush. Finish with a isopropyl alcohol wash and a water rinse. There are other chemicals you could use. You can find info at shapeways web site. Tim (The guy that designed the locomotive)
TIM SCHWARTZ, thanks for the info! I don’t know why I couldn’t see your posts before! This will be very helpful for detailing it, which I’m going to start on soon.[:D] Also, thanks for letting me know about the leftover stuff on the shell! I’ll be sure to give it a good cleaning.
I’ve done some fine tuning on the chassis, and gotten most of the wobble and surging motion out. It runs much better now. The weather will hopefully be warming up soon, so I’m hoping to be able to paint and finish it once it does.
Well, getting back to this took longer than expected, but I now have it finished!
Added a lot of details based on available photos! Except for the bell, it’s all from scratch. For the cable reel on front, I measured 200 scale feet of ultra thin magnet wire and wrapped it around to represent the cable.
More details. I got as much wax off as I could, but couldn’t quite get it all. Before adding the detail, I also sanded a few spots smoother. The manufacturing from 3D printing isn’t perfect, but it’s still very good!
I don’t have it electrified, but this working trolley pole was made from scratch.[:D]
Now onto the finished photos!
Turned out pretty good I think! I may try adding window glass later, but I’m all done with it for now. It will never be a perfect runner, but it’s at least pretty good, and has no problem pulling a few cars. And speaking of pulling, the couplers are simply glued in place. I could’ve come up with something to make them swivel and spring back, but it’s short enough that it does fine without it.
Very nicely done! I like the trolley pole details.
I have to say that I’m not quite sold on 3D printing given the problems with the wax and durability. That’s not meant as a criticism in any way. I just think I will wait a while to see how the technology develops before I dive in. Besides, I already have enough projects on the go to keep me busy for a year or two.
