Thats really unfortunate to hear, I actually had my last order actually come in like four weeks ago, after waiting over a month.
I loved scale coat stuff, was perfect for painting brass.
Charles
This may be meaningless, but eons ago MR made a series of diesel color paint charts which gave mixing portions to get the correct color for railroads. Perhaps MR could revive those as a subscriber bonus. Just a thought.
I used Pactra paints on my models for years and prefered them to other brands on the market. But that was then! Things look kinda bleak nowadays especially for those of us that prefer enamels.
Sure enough, and as such, resourceful. Tru-color line sounds interesting.
Regards, Peter
Even this has a huge wiggle. No one made the blue Amtrak uses on the Phase V livery. There’s considerable debate on the recipes.
Not limited to railroads either. I recently painted a room Penn State blue. Found the actual color that Penn State uses, as in what the Office of the Physical Plant uses. The color looked all wrong when it is a couple walls in a small room versus a scoreboard 100 feet across.
You should join into a conversation with military modelers about what color “Panzer Yellow” really is.
[:(]
-Kevin
Hi Darth, please keep us updated on your progress. Sounds like a good topic on a new thread.
quite apart from the loss of Scalecoat paints, Minuteman Scale Models also had some very intriguing kits in a variety of scales. As Kevin and others have indicated we are reaching the point where if you even think you MIGHT need something, someday, in a world far far away … better buy it when you can. True this is the kind of thinking that can make our basement shelves look like hobby shops without the credit card device.
Dave Nelson
Hi NittanyLion,
It’s true that, often times, prototype colors on models often don’t scale in the layout room. Lighting, light reflection, shadows, all play a part.
However, an area where we can make a noticable difference is the color temperature of lighting that modelers have in their layout room. Just look at Florida East Coast red under the traditional 60W incandescent bulbs or T8 flouresent lighting and you might say “Yipes!”.
Now that L.E.D lighting is more affordable, using lights that come close to the cool white “Daylight” 5000K to 6000K color temperature range (often preferred for kitchens and bathrooms on newer homes) will make your colors look more prototypical. For those of us accustomed to the “yellows” of incandescent lighting it can take some getting used to, but it works nicely. Note how the blue sky back ground looks “deeper and bluer” with the 5K rated lighting.
But I’ll digress as this can be the topic for a new thread [;)]
At this point I should have everything I need to build the next layout. I really cannot think of a single item or supply I do not have.
The amount of hobby stuff in this house (no basement) is horrific. It really looks insane.
Fortunately my wife understands the situation. If I do not have it today, it might not be available tomorrow.
Do I need an insurance policy for this stuff now?
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
All I need that I do not have is lumber.
Once I start building, nothing will stand in my way.
-Kevin
Just buy a lumber yard, Kevin. [(-D]
Rich
[quote user=“AntonioFP45”]
Hi NittanyLion,
It’s true that, often times, prototype colors on models often don’t scale in the layout room. Lighting, light reflection, shadows, all play a part.
However, an area where we can make a noticable difference is the color temperature of lighting that modelers have in their layout room. Just look at Florida East Coast red under the traditional 60W incandescent bulbs or T8 flouresent lighting and you might say “Yipes!”.
Now that L.E.D lighting is more affordable, using lights that come close to the cool white “Daylight” 5000K to 6000K color temperature range (often preferred for kitchens and bathrooms on newer homes) will make your colors look more prototypical. For those of us accustomed to the “yellows” of incandescent lighting it can take some getting used to, but it works nicely. Note how the blue sky back ground looks “deeper and bluer” with the 5K rated lighting.
But I’ll digress as this can be the topic for a new thread 
NittanyLion
Even this has a huge wiggle. No one made the blue Amtrak uses on the Phase V livery. There’s considerable debate on the recipes.
Not limited to railroads either. I recently painted a room Penn State blue. Found the actual color that Penn State uses, as in what the Office of the Physical Plant uses. The color looked all wrong when it is a couple walls in a small room versus a scoreboard 100 feet across.
I always used 5600K lighting for miniature/model photography, and color matched Fuji film.
Now that I have a digital SLR (well, I have had it for a long time), that has built in white balance adjustment, I think using 5000K light for the new layout will be good for indoor photography.
-Kevin
Why not 4000s?
I just installed 4000s in my basement and like the color. They’re switchable, so I took my modules and some equipment down there to test different temperatures. I liked 4000.
I doubt the Germans even agreed on it!
You can imagine my shock (And the guys in Hobbytown too!) when I found out Testors model paints, the “Gold Standard” for so many years was going away.
So I’ve been using Tamiya paints, both military and standard, when I need to paint. If you’re willing to compromise a bit they’re a good choice, they’ve worked well for me.
And Tamiya’s not going away, at least not anytime soon.
I doubt it as well.
I settled on Scalecoat UP Armour Yellow to use as Panzer Yellow on my military models. I am glad I have a good supply.
-Kevin
That was the whole model master line. The square bottles are not going away. I do like Tamiya however. Their hull red makes a nice boxcar red.
As elsewhere in life, we adapt. We have gotten used to off the rack/instant gratification supplies. Our forefathers in the hobby had to make do with what they could scrounge, blend, or create from other sources. Personally, I use as much house paint, acrylics and other water based paints as much as I do over priced 1/2oz bottles.
That said, there is a market here gentlemen (and ladies), who of you is going to step up and fill the niche. I am too busy and I know Elon has too much on his plate right now. . . . .[:-^]
I had the impression that paints have a limited shelf life. How do you keep your stock of paints in good condition while in long term storage?
I tend to overbuy hobby paints myself so this is good to hear but I want to make sure I store it properly.
Water soluable paints do go bad in different ways.
The only Solvent Based paints I have had go bad are Scalecoat 2, and then only after they have been opened and partially used. Unopened bottles of Scalecoat 2 seem to last just fine.
All other Solvent Based paints seem to last a long time. I have Testors square bottles with 15 cents on the lid that are still good. All my archived Floquil paints are fine.
-Kevin