I’ve had one for a long time. I’ve also seen some people say they are pretty pointless. Well, I have 10 Accurail hopper kits i am building, and as a matter of standardization I remove the plastic wheels and put in Proto 2000 wheelsets. 3 out of 4 times, they P2K wheels fit right in and roll like there’s no tomorrow. But on that 4th one, it’s liek the brakes are on. Out comes The Tool, and a few spins on each side and I can put the same wheelset back in and it rolls just as freely as the others. Absolutely worth having. On the sticky ones I can feel the burr inside the bearing when turning the tool.
Yep, I definitely put mine to good use during my plastic-to-metal wheels conversion project! Your ratio sounds about right, I think that I used mine on every 4th or 5th car.
I am a firm believer in this tool. I used it on my Walthers Superliners and they roll a whole lot better than they did straight out of the box. Everytime I see the results, I’m an extremely happy guy[swg]. I use the one sold through Micro-Mark. Well worth the $$.
Groan,I know its worth it but add another $9 S&H. I’ve always been happy with MM stuff but their S&H just kills me. But thats another story. Sorry to grump.[|(]
I bought one severral years ago and did a test. I used the same car for each step, straight out of the box, replacement IM wheels, and replacement IM wheels after using the tool. I don’t remeber the exact results as far as distance rolled but each time there was a marked improvement.
One thing about using the metal wheels and the tool, any rolling stock that it is used on will find any slope in your track.
The Micro-Mark and Reboxx one have positive ‘feedback’ - when the plastic chips start coming, you know you are turning it correctly. If MRC made one, there would be no ‘feedback’ and you would cut your way through the sideframe to the journal box! For additional money, they would have a computer interface that will tell you the tool had gone too far…