Here’s the latest on my Genesis Mikado. I have mine all apart on the desk, waiting for a part (the worm gear shaft coupling connecting it to the flywheel split this time). I read up on various methods MR’s used to improve this smooth-running, troublesome critter of an engine. One of these tips was replacing the little springs behind the driver axle blocks with Kadee coupler springs to improve traction. I did that, but some some crazy reason I can’t explain, the new setup ended up shorting out the frame halves. I stared for hours and couldn’t figure out why. I put back the original springs and the short disappeared. I guess when the axles come too close to the frame halves something must touch, and the stronger original springs take care of that. Sure enough, when I depressed a driver axle, my ohmmeter registered a short. This is a heads up to keep those springs in there.
Rob
NWSL offers the “correct” size locomotive springs for brass locos, I would assume they are the same size as the Genesis springs and the come in soft, medium, and hard for whatever application you need. I have been using them for years as some brass locos have springs in them that are too soft or too hard.
I would suggest you take a look at them before doing any locomotive spring changing as the Kadee springs are just way to soft and the wrong diameter.
Mark
If you are trying to improve traction. I have removed the spring fron the front pilot truck and on my track it still works fine. Then i took a chunk of lead and fabricated a solid tool box to fit under the front of the boiler on the pilot deck. The bigger the better. The engine is rear heavy and light in the front. Made a vast improvement in traction.
Bob
Also forgot to mention i wired the tender pick-up to the engine also so later i could add Bull Frog snot to the driver without any loss of electrical pick-up. So far have not needed the snot.
Bob
Oops. Pacific. Corrected that. [swg]