Glue is Elmer’s carpenter’s glue. If this was made of anything but wood I’d just soak it until the glue let go, but I think that would just destroy the wood.
–Randy
heat with a hot air gun?
Wellm I bit the bullet and soaked it in warm water. The glue let go, and I was able to scrape off most of it.
As expected, the parts warped, but I have them pressed with heavy wight between paper towels so hopefully when they dry out they will be back to flat.
The whole thing holds istelf nicely square but I never got the second side on because I realized my goof. So it should be good to go soon.
That was going to be my suggestion as Elmers is a water based glue, now the big question, why would yo want to disassemble it?
Randy, I would have experimented gently with a cut-off disk first. It may not be perfect, but the cuts can be reglued at the same faces without showing a lot of damage, and probably less risky than warping.
It’s tab and slot construction, so cutting a side of would probbaly not be in the best interests of future structural integrity. And I’d prefer my iPhone NOT fall out on the rails because the car comes apart.
As to why, well, I built it mirror-image by mistake. It would workl liek that, except the only view I’d get would be a truck level. I still can;t figure out how I messed it up, I had hte whole thing dry-fitted and checked it out that everythign went together properly and it all lines up. Then when I took it apart and actually applied glue and started attaching the pieces, somehow I flipped over the first side.
–Randy
If At First You Don’t Succeed, soak the glue and try, try again.
Don’t you just HATE when that happens?
I hope the pressing helps straighten 'er out for you.
Good Luck second time around.
[8-|]
Since the problem is solved, this is academic, but sharing techniques is always worthwhile. If possible, I’d use a razor saw rather than a cut-off disk. The saw is easier to control, and can make a nice straight line cut, something which my oafish fingers won’t do with a Dremel.
I got my razor saw at the A.C. Moore craft store, using one of their 40% off weekly coupons. That way I got a great tool for a great price.
Another approach that might have worked is steam.
I agree with Me B about the razor saw over the Dremel. I used a razor saw to take the floor out of a resin kit that someone else had REALLY messed up. The car sat way too high, and looked horrible. The razor saw also makes a narrower, straighter cut than the Dremel cutoff blade, so it’s easier to fit the parts back together again.
.
I disassembled an ancient Scale Craft automobile car a previous owner had assembled with a epoxy! I too resorted to a jewelers saw and patience. didn’t damage the factory painted tin sides too much and now it has that prototypical dented sheet metal effect with very little paint loss.
Dave
In one long-ago E. L. Moore construction article (Wan Ka Pow Fireworks Company, I think) his disassembly tool was a firecracker.
Not too good if you intend to reassemble or re-use the parts…
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Very carefully.
Rich
That was actually my first thought, and since I have my very own bottle on the bench (no conflict with the rest of the house) I gave it a shot. I probably didn;t wait long enough, as it barely made the glue on the surface tacky. That’s when I gave up and went ahead and dunked it in water. Everythign was nearly flat when I checked this morning, but still a little damp. I figured by the time I got hoem today it would be perfectly fine, however I came home to find my ‘weight’ have been removed and put away and now everythign is dry but the main side piece has a warp in it. Not too severe, guess I need to wet it down again and reapply the weight.
–Randy
A 10-pound sledge would probably disassemble the parts pretty quickly and thoroughly…
[C):-)]