I have some basic knowledge of electronics as I have taken a few college classes along the way
although I’m not some expert. I just took some classes. Have not dealt with Arduino but I know about it.
I was just wondering if any Model Railroaders here attempt to build their own electronics devices
rather than buy them from Walthers or other Model RR companies? NOT wiring, just electronics.
I’m not talking about DCC controllers or anything that complex (although that would be some challenge) just things like Prototype Train signals for tracks, sensors maybe receivers for DCC
any scenery controlling devices, or whatever you can imagine.
If you are and you have built your own, have you found it to be worth the time and effort or find
it easier to just buy whatever modules or devices you need and leave the electronics to someone else? Electronics is a hobby in itself after all, but it cannot compare to the amazing 3D artistic and electro-mechanical hobby of Model RRdng IMO.
of course it’s easier to buy and some times expedient, but designing and building your own electronics is part ot the hobby for some of us. Arduino/esp processors are inexpensive and make it easier and once software is written for one device it can be copied to others.
i’ve built a NCE compatble DCC controller i’m using on by home layout and a signal system and speed trap for the club. A comparable NCE cab6 is $100+
I’m working on an esp-32 base controller with 4x4 matrix keypad and OLED display which i plan to use on my home layout but will later modify the software to be used as a wireless throttle. It should cost ~$30 while typical commercial throttles are $2-300.
I probably fit your category. I do buy some simple circuits where it really isn’t practical for me to try to build them myself, but I’ve designed a specialized remote control system (that is 18.75% of the cost of a DCC system), a somewhat overcomplicated relay system to control a mine locomotive, and so on and so forth.
I have no background in electronics, other than building a crystal radio when I was a kid.
For my layout, I built some simple electronic projects involving Nano circuit boards with light sensors. The first project was some road crossing signals with blinking lights that were activated by the light sensors on the track.
It involved programing with Arduino circuits, which at my age were not easy to learn. But I’m glad I did take the time and did a lot of Youtube video watching.
I have always enjoyed using homemade electronics in conjunction with my model railroading. I guess my first attempt was in building Linn Westcott’s TAT III throttle when I was about 15. I learned how to solder and even make a printed circuit board for the throttle. By the time I got to electrical engineering courses in college I already knew much about electronics and circuit design from articles in Model Railroader. Both of my adult layouts featured homemade and designed signal and detection systems. Using an Arduino in later years made some complex logic as simple as writing some code. Easy to troubleshoot and easy (usually) to fix. Enjoy the challenge.
It’s incredibly simple: a remote-control relay module crammed into a locomotive is the primary component. Since I’m using O gauge, the railroad runs on AC and has DC-activated horns. Thus, I added in an AAA battery for horn control, and a 9-volt battery to power the relays. I would have used the proper power supplies, but there simply was not enough room inside all the locomotives that I’ve converted so far. The locos that I’ve converted still had the factory reverse unit, and so one of the relays on the module simply interrupts the current to actuate the reverse unit. The other one routes it through the AAA battery to actuate the horn. Speed control is done not with the remote but instead in the conventional manner of varying track voltage. This may sound like it defeats the purpose, but what I mainly want is the ability to park one train on a siding and run another nearby without disturbing the first. The cost per locomotive is about $15–a little less, really. The power supply is the same as I use for conventional–in fact, RCC-equipped locomotives are perfectly happy running next to conventional locomotives. Another nice bonus–the whole system has been engineered so that, should I find it necessary, the RCC can be removed from a locomotive and it can be returned entirely to original condition with little work, which is immensely useful as some of my locos are collectible.
I doubt that RCC Mk. 1 has much application outside of my situation, and I doubt that it could reasonably be fitted into anything smaller than O–though S could be a possibility. Still, the amount of money saved–that’s what I care about.
Still, the amount of money saved–that’s what I care about.
That’s so True.
I can appreciate all the control you have with the commercial DCC units but what I don’t
like at all is the crappy little tinny audio with the tiny little speakers. The realism is lost there.
I think I would rather use old block wiring & have recorded real train sounds through a stereo even if it doesn’t match the functioning of the locomotive than that little 1 inch speaker sound.
I have Nanos programmed to control micro servos for turnout control and change control panel indicator lights going to add layout signals at some point.
Throw the toggle and it moves the points at a controlled speed and distance and changes panel leds.Speed and distance can be adjusted in program. The whole set up servo, nano and switch is less than 10 bucks, Which is less than half the price of a Tortoise and can integrate with DCC and JMRI.Bracket for servo can be 3d printed.
Servos run off a bus wire for power and just one wire from Nano for servo control.
Also have Nanos programmed to control electro magnets for uncoupling and the associated indicator lights.This can be done with a Attiny 85 same program as the Nano.
Uses a lighted momentary pushbutton switch, push the switch, the led in the switch lights,triggers a relay to turn on electromagent for 15 (in my case 15 seconds total) when 5 seconds are left it blinks the built in led and shuts off the relay and led at 15 seconds. No burnt out electro magnets.Can adjust the time on, the blink rate etc.
The neat thing about this hobby is that there are so many different skills needed when building a typical layout that there is something for everyone to latch onto and enjoy. For some it is undoubtedly the electrical aspect of it. For me it’s building structures and doing scenery so I’m happy to be able to buy as many of the electronic components ready made as possible.
At a Train show in L.A. County Fairplex (where the Big Boy was) about 20 years ago,
I came across an Artist selling Model RR cars with incredible Airbrush painting.
Turns out he was formerly an Artist for one of the big movie studios in Hollywood.
After CGI computer graphics for movies came into use, he lost a lot of work.
So he turned to Model RR to express his Art skills.
My current thinking is to use inexpensive electronic modules. Packaging and harnessing for reliable operation are challenging. Having ready-made boards with complete circuits and good connections eliminates tedious work and gives good function.
Here’s an example. To run an electromagnetic uncoupler, I use a timer relay to hold it on for a few seconds, and a boost converter to step my 12VDC accessory supply to the required 16 volts. The modules are a few dollars each.
I’ve also used relay modules to cut power to track sections where a train is headed for a switch set against it, and to control multiple switch machines from one rotary switch.
I will sometimes cobble up a circuit board by cutting gaps between traces on blank copper-clad board, with my Dremel tool. I used this method to make a diode matrix for controlling yard ladder turnouts.
But… back in my DC days, I built a seven throttle transistor controller. It was a simple emitter-follower voltage amplifier, from a magazine article. Some of those cabs were built into panels, but most were tethered handheld units.
i’m often surprised by the cost of electronics. I understand the willingness of most modelers having little understanding of electronics, to purchase them.
DCC has been used to control and monitor layout peripherals: switches, signals, block occpancy and turnout position, but the # of DCC stationary decoders is limited by the # of decoders a system can support
the computer/model RR interface, C/MRI advocates using generic nodes that commuincate across a single (rs-422 or 485) bus to a central processor/PC to control/monitor layout peripherals. A separate control bus along with DCC for controlling locos
a slave node can have many input/outputs that can be used for various purposes including above, connected to nearby peripherals. This approach minimizes wire lengths and manages complexity.
the intelligence resides in the central processor which can more easily be changed and expanded as more peripherals are connected to existing nodes or more nodes added.
the NMRA advocated Layout Command Control is a modern approach that uses a CAN allowing peer-to-peer communication between nodes, avoiding polling which can be very time consuming on layouts with very many (100s) of nodes
another approach is to use ESP32 processors that support WiFi
Model railways give me the best opportunity to keep my electronic skills up to date.
My work history is in electrical installation, instrumentation,and communication.
Sometimes I spend more time (sad confession) on the electronics than I do running the trains.
I have several projects on the go. First I have set up a block instrument with two center zero ammeters re scaled to read “Train on Line”, “Line Blocked”, and
“Line clear”. There is a “commutator” (switch to the uninitiated) that allows the signalman to confirm the setting sent by the processor. The processor acts as the signalman at the other end of the section where it detects a train moving onto the section and sends a current signal to the manual operator.
The processor controls the track so that if the “Train on line” or “Line blocked” is not confirmed, it continues to ring the bell for attention. If the “Line clear” is not sent after the train passes, the approach to the section is isolated preventing any train movements.
My next electronic project is to program a passing loop signal system to set the signals to reflect the required train movements.
RB
I’ve used Arduino Nano’s for three projects; a speedometer - measuring train speed and displaying the scale MPH on a three line display, three instances where DCC commands turn on or off a relay that controls building and street lights, and DCC to control servo’s to open and close the doors on my roundhouse. The last was the most complicated and the most fun as well as having real-world impact - it keeps dust out of the roundhouse with the doors closed! I did all the project with prototype boards and point to point wiring.
Here is the Arduino part of the round house project, the servos and the servo control board are mounted to the underside of the roof of the roundhouse.
At our club, two members have been doing some custom electronics to activate lights, switches and other stuff. They buy low-cost components from China. They can even send the program codes and the Chinese will program the components there and send it here pre-programmed.
It’s impressive, but a few members are worried about managing these components in the long term. If the two members leave, no one will have a clue how these custom components work if they break down.
MANY years ago I got a computer science degree with a few electronics courses. I moved from programming to system administration, so did not keep up on programming nor electronics. I can often muddle my way thru though and am considering taking some courses when I retire (pretty soon)!
