If any one has experience with soldering oguage tubular track, any tips aon doing this would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks,
David
I use a high wattage big tip iron or gun [I have both]. I heat the rack until it will “tin” [solder will run and stick to track]. I then “tin” the wire. Then I heat both at the same time and wait for the solder to run and turn “silver”. I remove the iron and lightly squeeze with plires [takes the heat out quickly].
lightly sand the area you will be soldering to. Then, use a good amount of rosin and make sure you have a good connection. Be careful not to touch the track till it cools. Use some type of bench to work on that can take the heat, but watch if you put the track in a vise that you not clamp the tube you are working on as this could act as a heat sink.
dennis
Chief forgot to mention to lay down some sort of barrier between the track and the carpet so you don’t singe the fringe.
Of course if you have your track on some sort of benchwork, it’s no problem. [:D]
David, you didn’t say whether you want to solder wire to track or track to track. Frank answered the first, so I’ll try the second:
I solder my track joints because of the increased convenience of repairs and modifications. I don’t use track pins; so I can suck the solder out of the joints and lift the track section straight up.
You can make a solder joint just by flowing a bead of solder across the gap, on the flanges and web, if the gap is not too wide. I also put solder inside the (empty) railhead to make the joint smoother. I always have to push one rail or the other into alignment and hold it while the first solder bead solidifies, then take care not to remelt that while soldering the other side and the railhead. This requires a bit of practice and patience. I keep a loose truck handy for testing the result for smoothness.
Some folks find it easier or more secure to retain the track pin, or to solder a short piece of small-gauge bare wire across the gap, at the corner between the web and the flange, or both. If you keep your pins, the solder joints are not much extra trouble to undo for repairs. I use a solder sucker; some people prefer wire braid for removing solder.
I think everyone pretty much covered it. The only thing I would add is to be sure that you avoid acid core solder and stick with rosin core.
I slide some tools under the track sections to keep them off of the carpet. [;)][:)]
Since no one else addressed the location, I will add that I find it much easier to solder ot the bottom of the track. I use a Radio Shack Dual heat gun (~ 150 watts low, ~ 230 watts high).
I have successfully soldered 18 to 12 gauge wires this way. Of course, you need to think of your installation while doing it., especially for larger gauge wire. A 12 gauge wire that is at a 90 degree angle to the lower plane of the track will not easily bend to some other orientation once soldered (at least not without stressing the connection).
-Dave
Make sure your track and wire are clean, no finger prints, sand lightly , and use a flux inpregnated solder.
laz57
Dave, do not know if this is what you are referring too. I purchased a Radio Shack solering station. It has varriable heat ranges you just dial in. Costs about $70. It is great. Hold the heat you have set in. Serious solderers should invest in one.
Chief,
I think what you have is a pencil type handle?
The one I am referring to is a big old Weller style gun with a trigger switch(with 2 settings).
I saw RS still sells this a few weeks ago when I was in. I think it still lists for $30.
-Dave