It’s technically liquid traction tires that you apply to the drivers. With a recommendation from a friend, who used it successfully in N-scale, I got some and so far I’m not happy. It applies messily, gets stuck between the brake shoes, and I somehow managed to kill my S100 while applying it.
So am I doing something wrong or is this stuff not what it’s cracked up to be?
I have a bottle but never used it so I can’t advise directly.
The following older threads may shed some light.
LION used it. It needs to be applied carefully. Fortuantel, it comes off very easily and so you can try and try again until you get it right.
I may use it on other equipment, but I just rebuilt my subway cars untill the all worked correctly. LION replaced motors. Much better.
ROAR
Traction tires are a pain in the caboose on 3 rail 0 gauge, I wish they had never been invented.
Some at CTT swear by Bullfrog Snot and many say its no answer.
Not worth the effort. Even with a two acre pond, I soon ran out of bullfrog squeezin’s. [:P]
I’ve used it for a couple of years and it does add traction but doesn’t last very long. The trick to get it to work is to apply a VERY thin coat to one pair of driving wheels. On a six axle SD series diesel it works best when applied to the trailing pair of wheels.
Edit:
If you have a weak or slightly cracked axle gear on the pair of traction wheels the Bullfrog will find it for you quickly! CROAK! [:'(]
On my Rivarossi articulateds I only apply it to the existing traction tires.
After application let it sit at least 24 hours before placing the locomotive on rails.
Mel
Modeling the early to
I reviewed it when it first came out, and was quite impressed with the results. If you’re a registered MR subscriber, you can read my review here. If not, look up our May 2009 issue.
What we didn’t have room to say in that review is, you do have to apply a very, very small amount. Ridiculously small. (But that’s a good thing, as it will make your jar last longer.) Apply it with the wheels spinning, and let them continue to spin for 5-10 minutes after application, to make sure gravity doesn’t cause any bumps or unevenness before it dries. And let it dry a good 24 hours before putting it on the track.
Steven is correct…and it’s a learning curve. There used to be a good video of the way to apply the Snot. The demonstrator used a toothpick oriented the same way as the axle of the spinning drivers. With a small gob of the Snot, he let the driver spin and touched the tip of the toothpick to the tire surface, maintaining light contact. Once the tire was coated, he let it spin to even it out and dry a bit. It gets tacky fairly quickly, so you don’t have to let the drivers spin for an hour or anything like that to avoid a high spot on the bottom.
Don’t get fooled by the apparently dry product on the tire surface. It needs to cure for several hours before you subject it to the rigours of moving the locomotive and cars.
That’s because you went when it wasn’t cold/allergy/flu season(s). [:-^]
In all seriousness, I have a bottle, for a 4 axle road switcher, with sound, that just doesn’t have the same “oomph” power as others. I just haven’t got around to using it yet.
Several on-line if you search. For example:
I used it on my HO MTH Hudson because I had one curve on a grade where it would lose traction. I applied a couple of thin layers with a toothpick if I remember right. Haven’t had any slippage since. So far I haven’t had to reapply it either.
Must be a really good MR review leaving out a significant item when knowing about it! That breeds trust and respect for the reviews. Thanks!
Roger Huber
Got some to use on a couple of locos that needed some additional pulling power (a Proto 2000 2-8-8-2 and a Custom Brass Rio Grande 4-8-2). I was pretty amazed at the results. I used a very small disposable brush to apply it with the loco upside down in a cradle and the drivers moving at a very slow speed. Worked like a charm. Both locos pull much better, and given the size of the Snot container, I should be able to re-apply as needed for years, lol! I like the stuff.
Tom
Thanks for your sentiments.
The review was as long as it needed to be to tell you whether the product worked as advertised. Telling you how to use it is up to the manufacturer.
I’ve used BS successfully, mostly on my smaller brass steamers that needed more pulling power. Two things not usually mentioned is that BS is an insulator so you have to choose which drivers to coat with it. Drivers not needed for electrical contact are preferred. Also, BS goes on green but soon turns black as it will pick up any crud on the rails, even if you couldn’t see it with your own eyes. Application by skewer or toothpick takes a little getting used to but is quickly learned.