I may need some help constructing a layout table that looks good. My dad always built mine growing up and I can’t build crap. I’d be willing to pay someone to either construct one and bring it over and drop it off or build it at my place of course which I can help with.
Benchwork is not that difficult and almost every year Model Railroader has a project layout that includes a good introduction to one method or another for building it. So if you get MR you probably have several issues on your shelf with all the info you need.
I myself use the David Barrow “domino” approach using 1x4 pine for framing, 2x2 for legs, and the only power tool I use is a screwdriver. I buy the 2x4 foot tops at a building supply store — 1/2 inch plywood, already cut to size and sanded smooth.
But if you are really convinced this is beyond you, have you thought of buying benchwork from Sievers here in Wisconsin? They ship anywhere. A friend of mine is very satisfied with his Sievers benchwork and he has the skills to build his own, he just wanted to save time.
http://www.sieversbenchwork.com/
Dave Nelson
I also use dominos to build my layout. I have the lumber yard cut 3/4" plywood sheets into 1x4 lumber and cut 1/2" plywood into 18" wide sections for the top. I use 2" x 2" for the legs. To assemble I use a cordless drill, drywall screws and yellow carpenter’s glue. To cut the board to the proper length I have a cordless trim saw. I bolt the modular sections together with 1/4" carriage bolts. JIM
Do you have pictures of how this turns out? I might consider this option.
Boy, can I relate to that! I can’t build benchwork, don’t have the tools, don’t wish to try! My answer was Woodland Scenic’s modules. I can bolt them together, pair them, move them, etc. They are cheap and easy to assemble. http://www.woodlandscenics.com/index.htm Go to “Layouts” then to “Mod-u-rail” and on to “stands”. At 25 bucks per three feet, I think you are getting off cheaper than a trip to the hardware store.
Although I personally enjoy carpentry and build my own benchwork, I have helped others who have chosen to use both the Sievers product (which has been around for at least 17 years) and the newer Woodland Scenics product. Both are VERY easy to assemble, you should really have no worries there. I believe that the Sievers is a bit sturdier, but the Woodland Scenics has more interesting geometry options and I would probably go with the WS today for that reason.
my layout at most will be 3ft by 5ft at most. i’ll of course need to find a way to put a shelf on it somewhere to the side for the controls and switches too which i think i could do myself. what company would u go with? i think i checked out that newer company that had cool options but didn’t see one big enough.
You might consider a hollow core door 3.0 x 6’8" if you can handle that much length. Mount on saw horses or folding table legs that you purchase from HD or Lowes. I would still use foam board on top of that.
I was considering that but worried getting the door out of the room. My doorway leads right to the hallway but at a 90 degree angle so i would have to angle it upon exit and try to swing it into the hallway. if i move in a year or two might be really difficult to get out.
Hi, My Son(6) and I just starting our first layout and went with building the table from plywood and lumber, it was fairly easy and only required a cordless drill and cordless rip saw and drywall screws AND a couple afternoons. Any case, the surface is plywood and I would like to cover it with felt (as we’re not planning ellaborate sub surface typography). Can anybody give some good tips on glueing down the felt to the plywood? Thanks in advance, RDW
I’m debating now doing 2 3x3 layouts next to each other from woodland scencs or 2 3x4 layouts next to each other from the other company. anyone have experience in hooking two layouts together but also making them detachable so they are portable. it seems pretty basic. do the first layout leaving the extra rail to the edge for the next layout.
then put them side by side and use that to base where the rail goes on the new layout and just simply almost bolt them together?
I’m not sure if I’m answering your question, but my entire layout is easy to disassemble. The Woodland Scenic’s modules bolt together in four places and have leveling feet. I have a 1 inch section of removable track between each module. The wiring has disconnects at each module end. I can disassemble each connection in about five minutes.
To put the modules back together after a move, I take a long passenger car body with a bubble level glued on and place one truck on each end of the module so that the body is straddling the crack between. I adjust the feet until the bubble is level and bolt 'em back together and plug the wires to each other. Insert the connection rails and I’m ready to play!
I’ll be glad to take some pictures if that will help you out.
If its not too much trouble I would appreciate some pics. Thank you.
I’m not really sure what would be the best glue for felt, maybe the kind that comes in a spray can. but in any case a far better alternative would be to use the Woodland scenics ready mat, here is the web site
http://www.woodlandscenics.com/index.htm
bill
As per your request, here are the pictures of how my modules hook together.
This photo shows the bottom two bolts which hold the lower end together. You can also just make out the little leveling feet under each leg.
Here is the underside with the top two bolts and my wiring connections. I use three wires which run the length of the layout to control the block wiring.
Once the two connecting modules are level, I am ready to place the two rails. Each rail is one inch long. This one inch bridge is common on any module junction.
Here they are in place.
These four modules are for the MP interchange and yard.
The track work is done and now it is time for scenery!
I hope this helps you out. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
thanks and those are the tables from woodland scenics? i’m going to be using kato unitrack. will this make a huge difference in connecting them?
These are the Mod-u-rail tables from Woodland Scenics. I use the narrow 3 foot by 1.5 foot modules because none of the other sizes will go through a door once built! (anyone else notice that?)
As for the use of Kato’s Unitrack, I have no answer. I can speculate that you will run in to some problems matching up the ends, though.
By the way, I’m from north central Arkansas. I worked for Eureka Springs Fire & EMS part time until about four months ago. My new home is in Kansas.
I was thinking about doing the 3x3 ft sections. can you not set your layout on it’s side to get out the door? or is your layout mostly loose scenery where that can’t be an option?
love it here. never thought arkansas would actually be really nice and it is. as long as ya stay in the north i noticed. there is a model railroad club in siloam springs. i was going to try and find them and join but can’t seem to find any information about them.
I’m not sure that you could get it through the doors on its side because of the bracing near the bottom of the legs. I built one of the corner modules, which is a variation of the 3 x3, and then couldn’t get it out of my sealed up garage via the regular door. You may could remove the long braces on each side to maneuver it through a door. Another option may be to put two of the 3 x 1.5 modules next to each other to create your 3 x 3.
I’m homesick for Arkansas! I’ve lived in the Ozarks for the past six years and can’t wait to go back.
Ashcat, I would recommend against gluing down the felt. It will be very difficult to glue it down perfectly flat, also you’ll NEVER be able to remove it satisfactorily yet I’m not sure how permanent the glue will be either.
I recommend that you lap the felt over the edge of the plywood top and attach with thumb tacks. You can sometimes find them in green, but alternatively it will be quick and easy to paint them to match the felt.