the controllers are used to power or isolate the various blocks and sidings. there are switches that provide an on/off mechanism , there are three switches to a controller and they can be ganged one to the other. I use the simplest controller, but atlas has a double acting controller for reverse loops, and controllers for switch machines too. I find the Atlas stuff to be the most cost effective for me.
Check out www.atlastrains.com or www.walthers.com and see if they show them.
I have the new and old Train Engineer control.Track length may make a difference on how fast your train will run. I have over 200 ft. of track and use the 10 amp power supply. I run up to 5 trains at a time. PUT A FUSE BLOCK BETWEEN THE T. E. TO PROTECT THE T. E. IF YOU HAVE A DERAILMENT. tHIS WILL ALSO PROTECT YOUR ENGINE. Not doing this can FRY your engine and your T.E. You can buy the fuse at any auto supply. Get one that has a blade type fuse. I use a 5 amp fuse for protection. The fuse on the engineer only protects the train T. E. from crossing the wires between throttle and the T.E. I hope this helps, any questions,I’m here to help. J&DRR.[^]
I have an LGB MTS with remote handset and I can control everything; speed, direction, standing and other sounds, smoke and points (switches) and it is great. However there are problems in paradise; in that you don’t know if your comannd has been recieved and sometimes it isn’t, there’s alwyas a good reason but you don’t know. I have never had so many spectacular crashes and I am no Aussie version of Gomez Adams. But on 65 m (200’) of track, I regularly run three very different trains and switch them from track to track without leaving my spot in the shade or even somteimes I operate them from the swimming pool. I also run them from our bedroom late at night just to watch the lights go round.
This is a very expensive system and to overcome my feedback problems will cost more than I am prepared to spend. It can be done with isolated rail sections, signals and train proximity devices, which are all available at a price; as is the hardware and software to hook my trains up to my computer but I prefer to spend my money on track and its associated gear.
So to conclude this concept is really worthwhile but it does have its drawbacks and I cannot comment on the equipment as I only use LGB to date and I think that is all I can use now I have gone to reticulaing power to the trains via AC.
Rgs Ian; Kawana Island Tropical Railway.
PS I’m just back from holidays in Baliand put on 9 pounds, as the food and booze was so good and so cheap.
Hey Ian, vacations kinda do that to you, probably the reason we’ve never taken a cruise yet. Went to Cancun last year ate and drank alot, but we SWEATED it all of between the humidity and the heat! Climbing pyramids in Chichan ita is definitly not as much fun when you are drenched with humidity![8D]
I am interested in this project you put together. could you please send me somemore details. Like product number of *** Smiths kit. And any other detail that would be needed to do this.
you can email me at the following address:
Thank you for your time.
Jon
OMG 18 months resurrected from the grave!
I’ve been through 2 batteries already on my TE!
I have a basic TE and I would not hook it to a power pack that can reverse the polarity.
I choose to use a laptop computer power supply as these are rated at 18 volts and over 2 amps which is perfect for the basic TE.
I have been using this unit for 4 years with no problems.
Also, it is small enough to install for battery operation.