I’ve seen several threads about cleaning the track and how it is especially necessary for DCC systems to operate correctly.
I cleaned my small layout by hand last night and was thinking how exhausting it would be when I build my larger layout. The thought of having an engine pulling or pushing somethig around the layout sounded like a better idea than doing it by hand.
I found the CMX Clean Machine sold by Tony’s Train Exchange and thought it looked like something that would work. If anyone is using it I would like to hear your opinions / suggestions.
Instead of pushing or pulling something around the track all the time, try this. It seems to work quite well. My trains are running better than they ever have.
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QUOTE: [i]Originally posted by Semafore[i]I’m talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my ‘WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNIhe rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polio deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye’s content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I’ve only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I’m guinea-pigging (300’) sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I’m gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.
AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES…EVER!!!
Or you’ll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.
I’ve had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100’ with NO STALL or FAULTER. g
Well it is coming up on the start of year 3 and I still have not had to clean my track. Having used the Metal Polish (Blue Coral – Liquid) to clean the rails and I am continuing to do scenery and add more track. So I am making dirt all the time. And NO I do not have metal wheels on all my cars (am changing them out as the cars go in for maintenance).
I also do not clean any of the car wheels and as for engine wheel cleaning it might be once a month if then.
With 2700 feet of track (1000 ft of mainline) I don’t have time to use a bright boy nor do I want to waste time running a cleaner train around my layout. If you enjoy doing this fine, but I long ago got real tired of this. Until I used metal polish I had to clean the engine wheels every time I ran the layout. The sound engines cut out continuously. I was not happy spending more time cleaning than running. Now I tried just about every type of cleaning solution and method. They all worked but all they did was clean the rails not protect the rails from the dirt.
The metal polish must act just like car wax does to auto body finish and keeps the dirt from sticking to it. I really don’t know this for sure but what ever it is doing I like it and will keep on using it (wait I haven’t had to use it for 2 years now)!
Yes I have the CMX HO size. Its the only cleaning machine I have ever used so I have nothing to compare to however I am completely satisfied with it. I use alchohol rather than the more potent chemicals. About two times around a section of track and its good to go. I do notice that if I run a cloth around behind the cmx it comes away black so I am thinking of getting some type of dry cleaning car to run behind it to wipe up the residue. I live in the FLorida Keys and the humidity and temp in my attached shed where my layout is is very high. I tried the polish method and found it to be time consuming and it didn’t last for me down here more than a week and I was already finding bad spots with my locos. I ended up with goop on the ties and inside the rails so by the time I cleaned it all up I could have ran trains while I watched my cmx do its thing. So probably due to the conditins down here anyway polish isn’t the way to go. I imagine in a nice dry region it would last a long time. I have to wax my wifes patrol car about every two weeks for the same reason. I like the cmx because once you fill it up with your chemical of choice you just run it around the track. No work at all. I run it about once a week unless I have a great week and get to run my trains allot. I use a bright boy for areas that are not easily accessible to the CMX.
Terry[8D]
I use the Clean Machine, with acetone (very carefully). I also clean my loco and rolling stock wheels (all metal) with acetone on a Q-tip. The good thing about acetone is it leaves no residue to attract more dirt, and will dissolve any sort of gunk, dirt, paint, etc. it encounters. The bad thing is, don’t get it on any paint or breathe the vapor!
Other than when I get paint, plaster, etc., on the rails, and once I finally ad sense enough to get everything clean at once two years ago, I haven’t cleaned it since (except for those paint, etc. spots); I do all the wheels once a year.
I’m in Florida too, but not in the Keys. We have plenty of humidity here, but not the salt air, which I suspect is much of Terry’s problem, as I had a similar one when I lived right on the Atlantic. NOTHING worked very well there.
We have many areas inside tunnels or out of reach on our 20x40 foot HO scale layout, and have tried practically every track cleaning machine and method mentioned here over the years.
The best combination we have found is the CMX Clean Machine filled with lacquer thinner pushed ahead of a locomotive and a dry Centerline track cleaning car doing mop up service behind the engine.
On those areas that can be cleaned by hand, we use Nevr-Dull Magic Wadding Polish.
These treatments last 6 months or more in a very dusty, dirty environment of a building with no central heat or air conditioning and Arizona dust devils.
I’ve got a CMX. I’ve only used it a few times but witht he recommended laquer thinner it works well.
It does seem to be a problem with my atlas rerailers since they get wiped with a pad soaked in thinner that softens plastic. I stoped running the CMX in the staging area with the rerailers and may remove the rerailers.
i have 2 cmx and they do a great job. i clean my track once a month.2 friends of my 12 year old son like to come over and help. i use acetone and i have had no problems