Hello all,I have a unlettered PCM Big Boy and was wondering the proper way to apply decals that I got from microscale .I also purchased the microscale finishing system and am unsure what to use to get the best results without painting the loco thanks
I’m going to assume, that you are talking about a PAINTED, but unlettered locomotive. I would mask the drivers and running gear, then spray a coat of glossy clear where you are planning to decal. Once the clear has dried, apply the decals. I use decalset to set the decals. This makes the decal settle into and over any details (seams, rivets, etc.). Once everything is completely dry, remove the masking but leave the running gear masked, then shoot the entire locomotive with dullcote. If you want to weather the locomotive, I’d do it before you spray the locomotive with dullcote.
[#ditto]
I agree completely, except on removing the masking from the drivers before dull-coating.[%-)] Ever tried getting that stuff off the contact surfaces of the drivers?[:O] it ain’t no picnic.[:)]
Medina pretty much covered the process pretty well. But if you’re new to applying decals, I think you might want to invest a little more green and get a magazine that might help you understand decals a whole lot more. This one is a good start: http://www.amazon.com/Basic-Painting-Weathering-Model-Railroaders/dp/0890246246/ref=sr_1_1/002-2581960-3216065?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1177505293&sr=8-1.
It covers many other aspects besides decals and I think that it could be of benefit to you. Your LHS should have it in stock, but it may be cheaper if you look around.
If you bought the Microscale finishing set, then you should have a botle of MicroSet and a bottle of MicroSol.
MicroSet: This solution is a wetting agent and pre-softener and helps minimize the trapping of air under the decals. MicroSet also softens the decals a bit which helps in positioning the decals.
Decals should always be applied to a glossy surface.
After cutting out the decal and soaking it in water for about a minute, with a clean brush dipped into the Microset, brush some on the area where the decal is to be applied, then pick the decal up with tweezers and lay it down where you want it. At this point you can apply a bit more Microset, do any final adjustments, let dry. Apply the rest of the decals in the same fashion.
MicroSol: This solution completely softens the decals and makesthe decals conform to the body details like rivets and such. When the decals are dry from the previous step, apply the MicroSol liberally to the decalled areas, do not touch the decals until they’re dry again. Pop any air pockets (frosty areas) or air bubbles you can see, then apply more MicroSol. Repeat this untill you can’t find any bubbles etc… Let everything dry thoroughly (24hrs), before sealing the whole model with your choice of finish; flat, satin or gloss.
Successful decaling. Make sure the surface the decal is applied to is clean and not greasy. Fresh paint is good, if the model has been run, lubricated, and handled, a light cleaning with soap and water might be in order. Conventional wisdom calls for decals applied over a gloss paint, but I have had excellent results applying decals over flat paints like spray can auto primer.
Cut the decals free of the carrier paper and trim as close as you can. Trim the corners round, don’t leave sharp corners to curl up. Soak the trimmed decal in luke warm water (skin temp is about right). As soon as the water loosens the stickum between the decal and the backing paper take the decal from the water and slide it off the backing paper and onto the model. Take care not to let the wet decal fold over upon itself or tear. Position the decal and blot up enough water off the model to prevent the decal from floating around. Double check the positioning, so that letters are not slanted up or down. An ordinary sewing needle stuck into length of wooden dowel makes a fine tool for positioning wet decals
Now sparingly apply decal setting solution while the decal is still moist. I use Solvaset myself, but stuff from Microcale ought to be good too. The setting solution softens the decal and makes it snuggle down around rivets, wood grain, bumps and lumps in the surface. Once setting solution is applied, the decal gets too soft to handle, so be sure its in the right place first. Don’t apply so much setting solution that the decal floats out of position.
After all decals are applied, allow them to dry completely, say over night. Then to kill the decal gloss, you want to spray a coat of Testor’s DullCote over them. On a locomotive you want to mask off the works and any glazing before spraying. Once upon a time I used some other makers clear flat spray that mad
[quote user=“dstarr”]
Successful decaling. Make sure the surface the decal is applied to is clean and not greasy. Fresh paint is good, if the model has been run, lubricated, and handled, a light cleaning with soap and water might be in order. Conventional wisdom calls for decals applied over a gloss paint, but I have had excellent results applying decals over flat paints like spray can auto primer.
Cut the decals free of the carrier paper and trim as close as you can. Trim the corners round, don’t leave sharp corners to curl up. Soak the trimmed decal in luke warm water (skin temp is about right). As soon as the water loosens the stickum between the decal and the backing paper take the decal from the water and slide it off the backing paper and onto the model. Take care not to let the wet decal fold over upon itself or tear. Position the decal and blot up enough water off the model to prevent the decal from floating around. Double check the positioning, so that letters are not slanted up or down. An ordinary sewing needle stuck into length of wooden dowel makes a fine tool for positioning wet decals
Now sparingly apply decal setting solution while the decal is still moist. I use Solvaset myself, but stuff from Microcale ought to be good too. The setting solution softens the decal and makes it snuggle down around rivets, wood grain, bumps and lumps in the surface. Once setting solution is applied, the decal gets too soft to handle, so be sure its in the right place first. Don’t apply so much setting solution that the decal floats out of position.
After all decals are applied, allow them to dry completely, say over night. Then to kill the decal gloss, you want to spray a coat of Testor’s DullCote over them. On a locomotive you want to mask off the works and any glazing before spraying. Once upon a time I used some other makers clea
Bump
Microscale decals don’t need trimmed close like the old thick decal sets, they are already super thin and the edges disappear when they are dry…if you trim them too close to the design you’ll have problems getting them off the backing and onto your project piece.
The Microscale finishing system should have a tutorial page on how to use the set and how to get the decals aligned and free of bubbles.The decal set will also have a page showing placement and some tips on how to get a perfect result.