This is the first layout I’ve used this product on and I really love it! I’ve basically just been mixing it up and using my bare hands to apply it. Stretching it and smoothing it into place kind of like pizza dough. This is working fine but I was wondering if anyone has any other methods, tips or tools that they want to share?
Hey Lothar,
I am far from an expert, but here are some of the tips I have… like you, I apply it mostly with my hands. For tight spots, I got one of those plastic pallette trowel for 99 cents and shovel it in! I also use a WET brush to work it into corners and on the edges of the plaster molds.
One trick I also learned is to wet some crumpled aluminum foil (“tinfoil”), and after the sculptamold has sat for 5-10 minutes, place it on top and mold shapes/press it… this gives it a crinkly appearance that is good for background rockwork or inside tunnels.
Finally, of note thin washes of paint don’t work well with sculptamold… you will have to use more washes or thicken (add more paint). I love the stuff as well…used 4 bags for my current layout!
Brian
P.S. I will post pics if I have time tonight!
Use a flexible artists pallet (sp?) knife and dip it in water and smooth out the sculptamold. Works great for roads or other flat areas.
I’ve used a spoon before. If you use water it really helps smooth it out.
-Smoke
For coloring the Sculptamold, I’ve used brown Rit dye in water and spray it on while the Scuptamold is still wet. It’s drawn into the wet surface and gives good effects. Diluted india ink in water is good for gray tones.
I’ve never used paints to color my terrain, and I’m well pleased with the effects.
You can also brush on white glue while it’s still wet and start appying your ground foam.
I really like the stuff, but try using rubber gloves, it makes clean up easier.
Scupltamold is great stuff!
I mix it in small batches, as it starts to stiffen after a short time. You can add more water, but I find it easier to mix it to the consistency needed. You can vary this quite a bit, from really stiff to soupy. I use the cheap plastic putty knives and an old gallon plastic ice cream container to mic it with. Buying it in the 50 pound bag is the way to go.
I’ve used both washes and direct painting with acrylic, depending on the efect I was trying to achieve. You can see how I used Scupltamold here:
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/mlehmanRR/Rubber%20Rocks%20Liftouts/
and
Where does one find Scuptamold in 50 pound bags?
Walthers carries it as 126-41823.
I’ve also had quick service ordering it for direct shipment from Dick Blick:
DB’s stock # is 33104-1050.
Hobby Lobby told me they can order them but I don’t think the price was very good. Claycrete is about the same product too.
GREAT mountain pics guys! I’ll have to try that tin foil method. I’ve been using thinned down craft paint so it matches my home made foam. I haven’t tried applying it when the stuff is still wet though. I’ll have to give that a shot today. I find it’s still workable the next day and takes about 2 days to fully dry. Maybe I’m using too much water. I like the fact that it doesn’t crack off in chunks like plaster does. Never tried it in rock molds either.
thanks for the DB site info, looks like a great source
Nah, mine takes 2 days, sometimes 3 in the winter, to dry as well! Also depends on how thick I build it! Good luck…taking the camera down into the train room now, so I will get some pics
Brian