Guys,
I’m still determining if I want to go with paper towels and plaster or foam for my scenery. So I need the help of you guys that use the paper towel/plaster methad to enlighten me on how you get your tree to stay on. Foam you just stick the tree in a hole and the foam supports it. Where’s the support from plaster?
Drill a hole of the appropriate size, insert armature to the depth desired, dab of clear hot glue either over or under the plaster, or if possible, glue (latex) a piece of foam below (I know, more expense and work), and let the armature be supported by the foam. Hard to get that just right due the the nature of the nether side of the plaster, but it can be done.
I have tried the foam glued under the tree area. I could not make it work. I have tried hot glue under the plaster. That did not work at all unless glueing the carpet counts. I used hot glue on top of the plaster. When I carefully formed it like root material and painted it root color it was fair, the only way that worked for me. My solution - I use foam for scenery if I want trees.
Zak:
People often think that plaster hills are incapable of supporting trees or other items. Well let me tell you that’s untrue. I’ ve been using plaster and towel method for years and have had no problems getting my trees to stay where I put them. The trick is to apply more than one ply of paper towels over your scenery former (cardboard web or plastic screening) This provides a very rigid yet light weight shell. To apply trees, I drill small holes where each tree will go. I secure them using “full-strength” Elmer’s glue. To hide the gaps b/t the tree trunk and scenery base, Earth, weeds, and turf is used. Once dry, the trees are rock solid.
I would maybe make a suggestion on secureing trees to foam. I have found the best way is to use pins atached to the bottom of the tree and stick it in the foam. Anything that has plastic in it is perfect. Cut the pin head off, stick over a candle for about 20 seconds, then quicky push it in the bottom of the tree. It will melt into the plastic and secure nicely. With my other trees, I used real wood branches trimmed down, I just shoved the needle poitn into the wood to secure it.
Oh, do be careful. I would use needle nose pliers. It hurts if ya stick yourself. Not that I know form personal knowledge… Uh, just what a freind told me…
As much as I like to plant trees into a foam hillside, many times it wasn’t feasable to build up the area in foam. These areas were done w/ wire screen or cardboard lattice. I prefer plaster cloth but others in my club use paper towel or cheescloth. My recommemdation on these plastered areas, is to apply a second coat of plaster. I like to use the veneering plasters for this stage. Unical, Diamond and others, are formulated for the skim coating over blue board. This type of plaster has the greatest open/ working time. I’ll spread the plaster much heavier at the areas to be planted. The other advantage to this thicker layer is the overall durability to any abuse. A good hint for this final layer is to color the plaster. I use powdered masonry dyes for this step. Paints and other liquid colors just don’t get dark enough w/o using way too much product. The dyes are formulated to color masonry products and have no affect on open time or hardness of the cured plaster.
Hardshell done to the proper thickness will have a very solid sound when you rap on it w/ your knuckle or tapped w/ a tool handle. A thickness of up to 1/4" will hold the trees w/o any trouble. On occasion you may get a floppy tree. Hot glue, glue or tile adhesive will work. A few times, I have had some real stubborn spots, that the only way to hold all the trees was to spread expandable foam on the underside (Great Stuff), messy but works great. If your using plaster on open grid instead of foam, these are the best methods I have found. Now the foam advocates will have another reason to tell you to go "Foam all th
Thanks guys,
Question: What if I’m applying tall trees to simulate large pines? How do I support them, the same way?
Yes, since they should essentially be symmetrical in any one view, so they should balance nicely if you place them close to upright.
Just a thought from someone who is a long way away from installing the cedar forest I want to model.
Has anyone tried to make a hardshell-and-spray foam sandwich? Put in a layer of hardshell, then coat areas which will support foliage with that comes-in-a-spraycan foam insulation used to fill voids in insulated walls. Let the spray foam bulk up and cure. Trim and level as necessary. Cover with another layer of hardshell.
If this works the end result will be a hillside about 1/2" thick, and the foam will hold the trees vertical.
When I get to the point that such scenery is appropriate, I’m going to give this a try.
Chuck (who makes no guarantee that this will work)
Chuck, I just might have to beat you to it…I hope you don’t mind. I may be doing this in the next week or two. What a great idea. If it doesn’t work, I’ll be sure to make sure everyone knows it was your idea. Otherwise…[:-^]
Seriously, I think that is definitely doable, and your experience is showing.
-Crandell
Chuck,
I too think that it is a great idea. Not that I think that I might do it in all, but still a great Idea.
zgardner; I use plaster over paper towels over cardboard strips. To plant trees, I drill a hole in the plaster, plant the tree, and use thick CA glue in the hole. In a matter of seconds the tree is planted. This has worked for me, some of the other methods mentioned take to long and or are to much work. Try it, you’ll like it.
Bob
Sandy Southern Railway.
Chuck,
That’s quite a concept. I wonder if anyone has tried it. It does sound like it would work.