I have been running a motley collection of locomotives on my DC layout for years. I plan to build a bigger layout soon, and don’t want to replace all my loco’s. Some I bought at swap meets, some I bought new, and some were given to me. They all seem to run fine on DC. How can I tell which ones are DCC ready? Can I even install a decoder in my little Plymouth switcher? If I cannot install a decoder, I have heard pros and cons about running a DC loco on DCC. I am fairly well experienced in electronics - is there a simple way to protect a DC loco from burning out on DCC? Could I run DC in the yard and DCC on the mainline? I plan to mainly run 2 trains on different blocks, simultaneously and mostly unattended. I know I have a lot of questions - just looking for some ideas. Thanx.
HO or N? What brands are they? You can pretty much put a decoder in anything, given enough time and effort. There are pictures of some installs like that on the TCS web site - even those old Tycos with the single power truck. In my case, I couldn’t be bothered - modern locos are much better detailed and run much better, so most of my old Tyco stuff from the early 70’s went on eBay to finance the purchase of newer and better locos. I kept a few sentimental pieces but I haven’t bothered putting DCC in them, I just keep them in their (mostly original) boxes. Do a few searches - if you can get to the motor brush connections and isolate them from the loco frame, you can put a decoder in it.
–Randy
Welcome!
Your old engines are mostly not ‘DCC Ready’ for the most part. They would have the DCC plug/socket in them if they were. Most of your Athearn or Atlas engines are pretty easy to convert to DCC. That little Plymouth switcher - I suspect it could be converted, but is it really worth it? If you have the boxes for the engines, they may indicate if they are ‘DCC Ready’. Let;s look at your question/issues:
- Plymouth engine - this might be a good exercise in converting a DC engine to DCC. It will be a ‘hard wire’ installation, and you will need to isolate both motor brushes from the frame/wheel pickups. You can find some basic decoders for around the $15 range. Most of my engines came with factory DCC or were very easy conversions. I have a lot of P2K GP9’s that use the Digitrax DH163L0 series decoders that basically ‘plug in’. I have Atlas RS1’s with decoders that replace the existing DC light boards. Most of the newer Athearn Genesis and RTR line of diesels have the connector/cable in them and one can just plug in the decoder. I have converted two Athearn ‘Blue Box’ engines, but they generaly do not run as good(40 year old technology). If the engine does not have n/s wheels and ‘all wheel’ electrical pickup - I do not even consider it for DCC conversion. I have about 50 engines - 35 have DCC, and the rest are display shelf ‘queens’ - They have nice paint jobs/details, but are not great runners. Remember, DCC will not make a poor performer better!
- DC engine on DCC layout - It can be done with some brands of DCC(Digitrax/Lenz come to mind). The problem is that the engine will be getting the full DCC signal when it is stopped and you may hear a ‘singing’ sound - That s the motor shifting back & forth from the DCC signal(sort of a square wave AC). Some DC motors tolerate it - others just burn up after a while. I would never suggest running a DC
I agree with Jim wholeheartedly. Don’t waste your time to save a few bucks. The new quality engines of today are much better than what you may have picked up from a swap shop several years ago. I have one older loco (late 1980’s) that I converted to DCC. It was a Roundhouse RS-3. It met all my requirements to be converted and it runs very well.
If you want to select those engines which would be good candidates for conversion, look for the following things:
Nickel silver wheels.
All wheel electrical pick up.
All wheel drive.
Can motor.
Dual flywheels.
If any of your present locos do not have all these things, I wouldn’t even consider converting them to DCC.
You can install decoders in about anything if you really want to. If your engines are more than 15-20 years old, you will probably need to isolate the motor from the frame. This often just involves putting a piece of tape in the right place and then connecting the wires to the decoder. In some cases, getting to the motor might require some major disassembly, but if the engine runs well it’s worth the effort.
Just be sure anytime you install a decoder to put it on the programming track first and try to read it’s ID or some other CV. If it doesn’t read it, there could be a short - and by doing it on the programming track, you won’t fry the decoder.
I have installed a Digitrax DZ125 decoder in a 6 wheel Bachmann HO Plymouth. The issue is poor pickup. Plus the loco has a pancake motor. Runs OK with the decoder red and black wires connected directly to the DCC controller… Intermittent operation using the wheels on the track. I cleaned the track, wheel threads, pickups. Lousy pickups.
A DC loco on a system that can run DC locos, the loco motors will buzz a lot and some can be burned out. Plus only two or three systems can run a DC loco and only one at a time.
Measure the DC current required by the loco before attempting an install and mention the loco here, FIRST. Get some info from others.
Rich
Pretty much Any loco, with work, can be converted to run DCC.If you are really electronically savy, you may be able to convert your whole fleet.
But I would echo what some have said. I would look into new DCC equiped locos to replace your old DC ones.
You say you have a “motley collection” of locos-Keep only those that you are really attached to to convert, but seek out new ones to replace the others.
On your Plymouth switcher (I assume it’s HO) you will need to make sure both motor brush contacts are isolated from the frame. Since space is at a premium on a small locomotive I would suggest that the Digitrax DZ125 Z-Scale decoder be used. It’s tiny and takes up very little space. It will have to be hard wired in. That should be no problem for someone who’s experienced in electronics. I’ve been using DZ125’s on HO models for a long time and I’ve only had one go bad.