Can’t decide whether to build a layout in O27 or O31…i plan on running only post-war equipment…opinions please!!! thanks…
Yes. Although both types of track are much too large, O27 is not as much too-large as O31. If you ballast your track, the exposed part of the O31 ties will be about 9/16 inch wide, and the ends will be open. The O27 ties are only 1/2 inch wide, with closed ends. I find that the O27 ties can be made less obtrusive by filling in-between them with 3/8-inch “popsicle” sticks. The ties are still too wide (3/16 inch is scale) and the rails too high (about 1 foot); but I think it looks better than O31.
O31 is more robust when used on the floor; but, when the track is fastened down to a table, this advantage goes away.
I like the challenge that the sharper curves present; but I keep one main line at O34 so as to be able to run stuff that I can’t or don’t want to modify. O34, O42, O54, and O72 are all options that give you the looks of O27 without the short radius.
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027 tubular track is less expensive that 031 “O” gauge track.
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The lower profile of 027 looks a little more to scale than O.
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You can fit a more complicated track layout in a tighter space using 027.
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The 027 postwar switches (either manual or remote) are more compact than O gauge postwar switches.
My 5’ x 9’ layout is all Lionel postwar 027.
Here is a video of the layout with 4 short trains and 1 trolley running.
Hi Dave,
Thank you for sharing this video again. As if there isn’t enought play and operating value carefully engineered into the 9’ x 5’ portion of your layout, the L shaped expansion adds even more. Most impressive! [tup] [tup] [tup] [bow]
You had a separate video on the extension but I can’t find it. [:(]
Thanks!
Jack
Nice video! Question: are you making the AA MP diesels slow down manually as they come in front of the control panel, or do you have some sort of mechanism doing it? I take it the AA set is faster than the Great Lakes Passenger set, and you have to keep slowing it down to keep it from catching up to the GL set. Just curious.
When it comes to tubular track I like O-27 personally. Search for my hand laid O-27 thread. Your patience and time can make it look quite nice. Although I don’t show it in my thread, after painting the rails and ballasting, the track really looks much smaller than it does as it comes. It’s also cheap and plentiful and if you are creative you can bend it to any radius you need. I’m still working on custom built turnout for O-27.
I never really understood the rationale for Lionel’s O31 track. More expensive, way too high (for my taste, at least) and only a couple inches greater radius.
That’s the reason I like FasTrack. It’s about as realistic as you can expect 3-rail track to be, and you get nice wide O36 curves – or even wider, if you’ve got the room.
I only run postwar equipment, just like you. And it’s always happy on the FasTrack. But some of my prewar Lionel doesn’t like the FasTrack switches, so I’ll always keep some 027 handy for the prewar locomotives.
Since I am running 2 trains on each loop I am using a simple automatic circuit that momentarily stops the faster train if it gets too close to the slower train.
I think the O-31 track predates the O-27 track by several years.
I run O-31 and 022 switches. I think the 022 switches are first class as the trains seem to like them better than the O-27 switches. I also like the constant voltage plug for the 022 switches, although Bob Nelson has explained how to modify the O-27 switches with a constant voltage plug.
O-31 track and 022 switches have become very cheap. O-27 track and switches are even cheaper. I like to buy things cheap and make them work again. A week ago, I bought 2 boxes of track and switches (mostly O-27 track and O-31 switches), 8 cars including a whistle tender with a broken shell, and 3 transformers (two 1034s and one Type A) for $60. I will use the O-27 track, the cars and the transformers to make up train sets for some young boys. The transformers needed new power cords and a little lube, the cars are somewhat rusty, and the track may need a little work, but it’s all fun.
Bruce Baker
Here’s the video on my 2’ x 5’ extention that houses my homemade transfer table with sidings that can hold 10 engines. The October 2009 issue of CTT magazine has a step by step article on how I made the transfer table.
Did you do this with some insulated track or what? Or did you use something like a 253 block signal with the thermometric strip to cut power, then restore it after a few seconds? But that would make both trains slow down at that same point, wouldn’t it…You might have to expand on your description of your “simple automatic circuit” for me, if you get time. Thanks!
To run 2 trains on the same track see the Lionel 0/027 Train and Accessories Manual (blue) pg 28 to 30. Or Lionel Train Book (black) has the same information pg. 61. I don’t have KalmbachBooks Wiring Your Toy Train Layout or Wiring handbook for Toy Trains but from there advertisments I would think they tell how to run 2 trains.
Here is the basic circuit for operating 2 trains on 1 track. Instead of the pressure switch I used an insulated outside rail that would close a relay.
Fast track and O-27 are good for post-war stuff, but it depends on what post-war stuff you will run. The larger steam locos and longer cars will have problems with O-27. I’m using a hybrid of fast track and O-27, fast track for the curves and O-27 for long straight away. I think you can make O-27 and O-31 work tougher similarly. (have not tried it) But if you are on a budget O-27 is the way to go.
There’s no need to adapt O27 to another track type. Just plug in O34 curves, or whatever larger radius you like.
David: so in your application, the 153 pressure contactor (or your relay,) installed several sections in front of your isolated (from center rail power) block actually supplies power to your block when the “ahead” train is off it, but cuts power to the block when the “ahead” train is on it? I’ve done the opposite: used one train to supply power to a block (isolated with outer rail fiber pins,) but I’ve never used it to cut power to a block. Is my understanding right?
I’m going to try David’s article - I have an all-027 track layout - simply because that’s what my starter set came with 10 years ago. I’ve kept it and just ‘grew’ it because 027 track was inexpensive and I never owned or ran equipment that required larger curves - though as Bob noted, larger radius 027 curves are certainly available.
Yes, you are correct.
The basic advantage of running 027 for me is size, because you can run a smaller track layout, and the weight is less than O gauge tubular like Lionel’s 031. Those are a couple of reasons why I run 027 with Gargraves switches on my upper level.
You can use Lionel’s CTC power lock-on for either 027 or O gauge track. 027 track has track clips to keep it together that go under the track just like O gauge tracks, but have a differant shape, also 027 track clips(if you use them) need to be installed before setting the track in place or as you go. Not sure but there may be some 027 track made by Ives Trains as well, at least some of the track clips I bought for 027 has Ives stamped on them.
Both Lionel and K-Line made 027 track, curves sizes 27 & 42 inch. Marx version of 027 track has 34 inch curves if I am correct, also the Marx track pins might be differant than Lionel.
Lee F.
Lionel got their O27 track when they (and American Flyer) acquired Ives around 1930. That’s why they called their older O-gauge track, which nowadays gets called “O31” or “O30”, simply “O” and gave a new name to O27. They continued manufacturing the O27 track clips with the Ives name to protect the trademark.
Marx made both O27 and O34. Marx track pins are different, but the same diameter as and completely compatible with Lionel O27 track. K-Line made O27, O42, O54, and O72 in O27 profile.