Anyone having any experiences with these? Code 83 Custom-Line(R) Turnouts w/Nickel-Silver Rail & Brown Ties – #8 Mark IV Right Hand from Atlas. I also wonder if this is the switchengine to go with it?
Manual Switch Machine for Code 83 Turnouts – Right Hand from Atlas.
Thay all seem so cheap in comparison to my european turnouts.
Lillen
I prefer Shinohara.
Dont knock these “Cheep” switches, add a turtle, hare, circuts, solder, cork roadbed, ballast, paint, throws, switches or control devices… it all adds up.
Well I like them cheap if possible. I didn’t mean cheap as in poor/bad. I rather meant that they were no very expensive. I was thinking of ading manual switches. They only come to 18 $ wich I find inexpensive.
Lillen
Atlas code 83 Customline turnouts are just as good as a Peco or Shinohara because they have been redesigned and are nothing like the code 100 products. Mine are marked as “Made in China,” by the way.
I get those for $9. They work fine. They’ll work with any power switch machine.
That’s good to hear. If I’m going to get a Peco here in Sweden it will cost roughly 35 dollars so you can see why I would prefer the Atlas ones.
Lillen
If you’r going to set them uup for manual operation, try the Caboose Industries ground throws. They work and look very good and are relatively inexpensive, (I think I paid 15$US or less for a pack of 5 the last time I purchased some). Check Caboose Hobbies (Denver) or Walthers.
Lillen,
I’ve used Atlas track for years, and have had very few problems with it. Most of my switches are unpowered–some have manual machines, other have wire staples to hold the points. The rest have Circuitron’s Tortoise machines mounted under the table. These machines are excellent…but might be expensive over there. Last time I checked, they were about $16.00 (US). With these, you’d also need a DPDT switch and maybe a pair of indicator lights. However, these machines tend to last seemingly forever. As to the Caboose throws, I can’t comment on them, since I don’t have any.
I do know that occasionally, the tie strip can “peel away” from Atlas track. That is, the tie strip sometimes loses it’s grip against the rail. It doesn’t happen often though. A little super glue, and it’s as good as new.
Those and ONLY those particular kind of Atlas turnouts are very nice. I use them WITH my ultra expensive fantastic Shinoharas and am not the least embarrased to say so.
Peco for $35 a piece. pffffttt…can we say RIPOFF![:-^]
Well that is the price you pay for living in a country with no competition. I often read on these forums that x and z is cutting prices threatening the market and so on. In Sweden, most prices seems to be the same in all stores, When there is a difrence we are talking about one percent perhaps. So long live competiton and a free market.
Lillen
Anyone who knows if both rail gets power when using these or only the one that the turnout is in position for?
Lillen
Hi Lillen
“Well I like them cheap if possible. I didn’t mean cheap as in poor/bad. I rather meant that they were no very expensive. I was thinking of ading manual switches. They only come to 18 $ wich I find inexpensive.” Lillen
I have over 96 Atlas Code 83 and code 100 switches on my layout, of which 96 are electrically controlled form four panels. and five manually operated Atlas switches. They seem to offer no problems. Some of the switches are of the old attached single coil natured, and some are double coil solenoid switch motors,(mounted from below the ties). For easy access areas, I have installed 5 manual switches.
Bob
Lillen,
Both routes are always powered in the Atlas turnouts.
On my layout, I use the Atlas Code 83 custon turnouts. However, recently I have been dissatisfied with them. This is because the Atlas frogs are molded plastic, and as a result the railhead does not sit flat with the plastic, causing a bump that can lead to derailments. Also, the throwbar is relatively weak and can easily fail.
If you can, go with Shinohara. For only a few bucks more (usually only $1 or $2 more) you get a high-quality turnout at least twice as good as the Atlas. The Shinoharas do not use molded frogs, so they track just great. Not to mention how much better they look. I’ve started replacing the important turnouts on my railroad with Shinohara.
The only problem is the Shinohara supply is very limited, and most shops are often on backorder. However, the big MR e-tail giants seen to have them.
Driline,
$35 for a Peco turnout? That’s almost double what they cost from Cherry Creek Hobbies. Whoever you buy from that sells them for $35 is really ripping off their customers.
lillen:
Atlas switches are 'good’ but not perfect. Peco track is better made, With Atlas, the question is whether that’s good enough?
Whatever you decide, your track choice will stay while your engines come and go. Atlas may be good enough.
Atlas code 83 turnouts ALL have a cast metal frog. Atlas code 100 turnouts made since about 1980 have a cast metal frog.
On the code 83 turnouts the # 4 and #6 frogs do not usually sit level with the rail. I take a flat file and file them until they do. This also removes the black “paint” from the frog which is an insulator. There is a small loop that can be threaded for a 2-56 screw for powering the frog. The #4 and #6 atlas code 83 turnouts are ok. I have about a dozen on my layout.
The new (2002 I think) atlas code 83 # 8 turnout is quite differnt from the #4 and #6. The frog is cast from a different material and is coated with a nickel like finish that is electrically conductive. The frog casting also sits more level with the rails although not perfect. The frog looks terrible in the package becase it is huge but a little flat black paint makes it look acceptable to me. The frog is LONG. If left unpowered it may cause problems. It is easy to power with the small brass loop on the outside of the tie that is provided. THe points are also different. They are cast, not stamped like the #4 and #6. I have noticed an issue with the cast points being slightly lower in height than the rail causing a jerking movement in trailing point movements. Not all the time or on all switches but here and there. A little work with some 400 grit sandpaper to take the edge off the stock rail seems to do the trick.
I dont really care for the atlas throw bar but I cant say I have had any problesm with it.
I have about 40 atlas #8 switches powered by totoises.
I had planned on using Walthers code 83 but got so sick of waiting for them since they are alwasy out of stock. They cost a little more but I would have paid. The walthers switches arent perfect either. I think they do look better with their all rail frogs but you have to solder a wire