Hi,
I live in a Townhouse and don’t have room for a permanent layout so I’m going to build a layout I can store behind a cabinet. No scenery, just track. I’m using Kato track and planned on nailing them with Atlas track nails directly to plywood. The layout size will be 6.6’ x 4’. Do you think the track nails will hold the track in place sufficiently or do you think gravity will rip them out when I put it vertical? Below is the layout plan.
I live in a townhouse too, but it has a basement so my layout was constructed in modular sections which can be broken down when it comes time to move, although the track has been laid across the joints, so it will have to be cut or removed.
Atlas track nails should hold the track down assuming they go deep enough into the plywood such as when you nail down ordinary flex track. I’m not sure how thick KATO track is so thats a consideration. HO or N? I have an oval of HO KATO unitrack but it was purchased just to set up temporary test loops; normally I use Atlas flex track on homasote or on plywood with cork roadbed.
Thanks. I just came back to post that it’s in N scale. I’ve also thought of possible using some sort of brace at random intervals or near switch tracks to hold the track down on the side of the molded on road bedding. The last thing I want is $450 worth of track to come crashing down onto eachother.
In a case such as this, I recommend using some sort of adhesive. The unitrack has its own roadbed, so this is a perfect situation for using adhesives instead of track nails. Once dry, the track will stay put, no worry about how far the nails go into the base.
Recommend latex caulking, that way if you decide to change the layout, you can pull up the track with a flat spatula, but it will stay until you pull it up.
A track nails cautionary note…
You can inadvertantly tack the nails “too hard” and end up cracking, or dimpling, plastic roadbed and/or ties. Plywood can have a “hard grain” that may encourage extra pressure with the hammer (oops!).
I would suggest that you use white glue to secure the track since you want to put that vertically. White glue is quite cheap and very forgiving. I find it easier to use than chaulk for securing track.
I use DAP caulk. It holds tight and can be removed with a putty knife if required. I also used it on a small rr on a board that my grandson keeps in his play room. It gets moved frequently including standing up. In use it lays on the floor and he sometimes walks on it. Nothing ever comes loose.
If you want to reuse the track in a different track plan someday, using track nails might be the easier option, although the advice not to drive the nails in too deeply is good. I am sure they’d be plenty strong enough to hold the track in place if the layout is stored vertically or even upside down. I have also seen small black screws that might work, too, and be even easier to remove.
Dave Nelson
I second the caulking recommendation although, Dave, as usual has brought up an important point.
I made a test/breakin circle 20+ years ago. When not in use it is on its side.
Cork and track heald by track nails.
Dave
Track nails into plywood will hold the track in place even if you store the layout upside down and hanging from the ceiling. I’d suggest, though, that you drive the nails using pliers rather than a hammer - more control and less chance of driving them too far and possibly narrowing the gauge of the track.
Wayne
I predrill the holes so the track nail is a tight fit, but one where I can tap the nail home with a nailset and small hammer.
For this application, I would use nails long enough to go almost all the way through the plywood.
Good luck
Paul
i have tried different track nails and the new adhesives and they let go or are not long enough. I would check the local hardware store for thin longer nails maybe wal mart and the cost is about 2 to 3 bucks with some left over for house repairs. the new adhesives have a shorter stamina time span then the older stuff just plain experience talking here.