I have had major problems with engines or lighted cars shorting out at the frogs of Aristo Craft switches (turnout).
All brands of equipment Aristos’s RS-3s, SD-45s, 4-6-4s, RDCs. All MTHs with wipers.
Aristo’s Fix was removing feed jumpers. That causes dead spots.
I placed a small piece of tape over the two rails by the frogs. I used 1 inch wide painter tape.
I am so happy to be able to run now. I have not tweaked it to the best. IT WORKS now.
This is the older style switch with metal guard rails by the frog?
Yes, the solution is to clip the wires powering these rails. Of course, covering them with tape would work[;)]
for a while.
Tape is not a solution.
Cutting the rail back, insulating with epoxy, and moving the jumpers to the other side of the gap is.
Shinohara apparently has the same issue, as mentioned on the MR forum, and the “fix” was paint.
Also not long-lasting.
One poster cut the rail, moved the jumper, no more tape or paint.
You need to look for a more permanent solution. The tape is going to fail (and generally when you’ve got 100 folks milling around during an open house).
Of course, since some folks think I don’t have a railroad, when I do build one and start buying locomotives, I’ll actually know what I’m talking about, right?
BTW, not one of the outdoor switches that I don’t have (about 75) are insulated AT ALL. I guess there is a solution after all, and someday I might have to investigate on-board radio battery.
TOC
hehe
TOC, you’re mean.[:-,]
I just looked at my new 10ft dia switch Purchased on tuesday it has a plastic frog and guard rail’s so will i have an open ( dead spot ) at the frog? stainless BTW.
DW, I’m not sure about the 10’ jobs, but on the #6 SS switches I just had 5 out of 9 fail due to expansion and contraction action over the years filling the gaps between rails down the line with granules of sand and forcing the rails to close the air gap on the switches, thus shorting the frog across the active tracks. Had to remove switches, repair by placing plastic in air gaps, and reinstall the switches!
Maj Bob thanks for the added info my #6’s are not nailed in place so i mite just fix the air gap now instead of latter.
This is one reason why I use LGB switches[;)]
Both styles of my Aristo Turnouts short.
Cutting or removing the jumpers is not a solution.
Short wheel base engines and most Aristo engines do not pick up on all wheels and die at the open rails.
If TOC knows a perfect solution I will be happy to use it.
The tape works great for me. I am not UP or BNSF running 100 trains a day through Rochelle.
DW,
Yes, short wheelbase locos will have trouble with the long plastic frog on the 10ft switch. An extra pickup wheel will do wonders. The Aristo 0-4-0 will run over it just fine, and it’s pretty short.
Hey buddy, regarding on board radio battery power…it freakin rocks! No more track cleaning for me.
TOC does know what he talks about, even if people don’t believe him[:-,]
This is one reason why I use LGB switches
I’m with you on this one Vic, radius 5, thing of beauty. enough said.
don’t ask me about border/width/height, they just appeared on posting![:o)]
Well from what I read in the forums.
You and every one else will not have access to those high priced toy train LGB Switches.
Then what will you do?
If I can make what I have work better I will and present it.
If you have unlimited funds and access to high priced item GOOD for You.
I think Aristo Craft switches(turnout) look great but had a problem I corrected.
(Use smaller font)
What short locos do you have? Do they get both pickup wheels on the plastic frog at the same time? An extra set of pickup wheels, like on a tender can do wonders on turnouts, dirty track and other things.
Nothing shorts on the plastic frogs!
It is the narrow gap between the rails near the frog where the shorting occures.
This is what the tape corrects. removing power from the rail creates the engines dropping out.