I want to model an ashpit like this one. I should be able to cut into my 2" foam and lower the track to below grade without much difficulty. The concrete under the rails it appears hastily done. How can I replicate this look? Can I smooth out the foam and paint it? Use Hydrocal or Styrene or something else?
I have photo of another ashpit very similar to this one that shows the horizontal rails being supported by lengths of vertical rails. They appear to be welded together. Can I solder rails together or is there a glue I can use to get this welded look? Thanks for all suggestions and ideas.[:)]
It’s too bad that your prototype didn’t “cut into the foam” a little deeper - pit labourers would have had to lift the ash/cinders just to load that flatcar, and a gondola would present even more of a chore. For rough concrete, you should be able to get away with simply painting the foam with a suitable shade of water-based paint. You could also apply a thin coat of drywall mud before painting - this would be a way to make the support rails appear to be imbedded in the concrete. Rails, nickel silver or brass, will solder together easily if cleaned. I use fairly fine (#300 or #400) sandpaper for this purpose. Were I doing this, I’d lay out each rail and its supports flat on a sheet of 1/4" balsa, using straight pins to hold all of the parts in alignment. Starting at one end, apply flux to the first joint, then solder it together. Apply a wad of wet tissue or paper towel to that joint, then flux and solder the next. Move the wet tissue to that joint, flux, solder, and so on. For the cross ties, which on the prototype would likely be steel or iron, too, you could use PC board ties, but make sure to cut an insulating gap in the foil of each one. I’d pre-notch the tops of the support posts using a cut-off disc in my Dremel before assembling each rail and its posts, then trim the PC ties to length so that, when fitted into the pre-cut notches, your track would be properly gauged. To solder the PC ties in place, place wet tissue on all joints adjacent to the one on which you’re working - the ones on either side on the rail being soldered, and the one at the opposite end of the tie which you’re soldering, unless you’ve already gapped the foil. An easier way would be to assemble each rail and its supports, then add PC ties to the bottom of the rails at points between the supports. After all are in place and gapped, trim the ends of the ties flush with the outside edge of the base of the rails, then paint them the same weathered colour which you use for the rails. By the way, sorrry for the lack
I myself would use a coat of hydrocal over your foam, when almost dry or even when it’s fully dry spritz it with wet water and drag a dry stiff bristle paint brush across it to simulate the concrete look.
Wayne. I think I will make the cut a little deeper. Don’t want my “Shovel technicians” working too hard. Union problems are to be avoided. I was thinking if I have to cut deeper than 2" I can just glue more foam underneath. Wonderful stuff that foam.[:)] Also thanks for the soldering tips. I may give it a try tomorrow. We are in for a week of rain.[8D]
I have the same spacing problems when I use Safari. I always hit the return twice for two spaces and it comes out as a single space in the post.
Paul Scoles did a GREAT job showing you step by step on his whole service area including his ash pit. A must see for someone looking who really wants use it as LDE. I think it was on vol 2 but it might be on vol 1.
