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Ask MRVP: Episode 2
Another great episode. Is there any way to post when a new video will be on line? Like a TV listing?
Love this series
I was a little surprised to see David trying to solder to the Atlas frog. This is non-ferrous metal, I guess something like zamac, and he’s right, it won’t solder. He came up with the right solution, tap 2-56, screw in a brass screw, and solder to that.
Great series. I have some questions. First, when I went to a train show recently, I bought a coal car with rotating bearing caps, I would like to know where to get them? Second, where can I get good decals for boxcars, and covered hoppers, since I would like to redo some old cars with a new paint scheme, and decals for my made up railroads. Also, will decals stick to rust-oleum spray paint? I would also like to see a video, or series of videos, on how to make older truck mounted coupler cars, into a car with a fictional paint scheme, weathered, and have body mounted couplers.
For the Atlas turnout frog you can purchase an item from Atlas called “Bus Bar for Snap Relay” , part no. 9200002. These are brass bars that fit under the frog and screw to the hole in the frog. The bus bar is threaded for a small screw which goes in from the top side of the Atlas switch. I think it is a 0-80 thread, but Atlas also sells the screws as part no. 9200001. You can then solder your wire to the bus bar. I have used these on all my Atlas turnouts and the nice thing is that they can be installed before or after the turnout has been fastened to your layout. I just checked and the Atlas website has these listed as in stock from their inline store.
When it comes to paint for any of my locomotives, I would take the locomotive cab and send it to my local Ace Hardware and get a sample can (the small pint from Clark & Kensington for $6.00) for them to color match that way I have enough paint to either take care or just paint a new locomotive in that color.
When it comes to airbrush, I would get 75% paint to 25% alcohol (to fill the one oz. jar) just for it to go through the sprayer.
Would love to see in detail how you wired Peco turnouts for the Red Oak layout on the door. No juicers?
Love it. very informative
To CHARLES SAPP, You can buy trucks with rotating bearing caps from Athearn they are in their Genesis line. A word of caution, they are fairly expensive, like $15 to $18 per pair. As far as decals Micro Scale has a good selection of decals available for boxcars and covered hoppers. I discovered a YouTube video by a young man who does a nice job of upgrading older rolling stock. Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okxkUjuSogQ
Hope this helps.
I noticed the question of “how to view previous videos on past layout projects” and we were shown how to select by clicking the links as explained by Kent…MY question for “Ask MRVP” is Why are these short videos of past completed projects not linked and edited into one longer video so that a subscriber can watch the project from start to finish without having to keep selecting each one back and forth clicking and being subjected to the repetitive introductions that seem to last too long as it is… This site is supposed to promote model railroading and your awesome work via videos that keep us coming back…not short commercial like installments.
Hi guys, on MR, June 2015, page 41, Andy Renshaw mentions that he covers his decals with white glue. Never heard of this technic before!! Could you elavorate more on this topic? thank you!!!
I have a question. In the summer of 2008 I sent in an HO Scale 2 bay hopper car lettered for the Pittsburgh & Ohio railroad to be placed as a private road offering for the Septemeber 2008 issue of MR. Where do those cars end up? On the MR&T somewhere? Would love to know thanks!
David, I was getting really excited for a few minute there cause I thought you were going to show me something new on the Atlas turnouts. I ruined many a turnout in my younger days trying to solder to the hole in the Frog. Eventually I just went ahead and tapped the hole and screwed a piece of copper strip to it, and the soldered the feeder wire to the copper; basically a homemade “bus bar” solution that Atlas has now.
At any rate, I got to relive my failures, minus all my expletives I was using as I was melting ties, in watching you try to solder to it. In fact, my first reaction when you read the question was to yell at my iPad “Don’t do it David, you’ll just melt the ties.” On the other hand, it’s cool to see that even the professionals make mistakes too. Great episode.
I loved the “Onward!” cameo at the end of this video…
In addition to what Keith Edgington already told you about Atlas bus bars, please notice that the plastic tie next to the whole for attaching the brass bus bar is thinner to accommodate it.
Did you guys loose part of the Winter Hill Branch videos? It ends before you talk about any of the buildings. Are there any other projects that do not have all of the videos?
Nice series. I noticed as you were talking to Drew Halverson there was a picture on his computer that appeared to be a Norfolk and Western J Class. Is that correct? My dad and grandfather both retired from the N & W so I’m somewhat biased when I say the J Class is the classiest (ahem) of all the old passenger engines.
You guys are out idols and it makes me proud to see the human factor in the scheme of things. It’s not blunders or jokes. It’s to know that even the experts have trouble from time to time. David and Crew loving the MRVP and thank you for having us all at the office.
On the Red Oak you used electrofrog turnouts. I had been lead to believe on DCC layouts insulfrog turnouts were recommended. Your thoughts would be appreciated