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Ask MRVP: Episode 8
I would like to make the T-Trak modules, but I don’t have the necessary power tools to do it.
How would you go about doing it?
Great job gang. BTW, I think the number of videos is about right. If I watched any more I wouldn’t get anything done on my WM layout.
Hi David, How do you repair older resin type water on a layout that is cracked?
I have used Kato track on a layout like you are using on the T-Trak modules. When you snap the track together it is a very tight fit which may be good but doesn’t seem to allow for expansion and contraction. If you have a layout in a room that is subject to a fair amount of temperature change what would happen with the track? Usually it is recommended that you leave gaps in the rail to allow for expansion/contraction!
Well, another fine segment you’ve done David! Very helpful info and I feel like I know my way around the premises of MR and Kalmbach Publishing… thanks to Hal Miller and his excellent tour he gave me prior to Trainfest! I can vouch for the Tee-nut and hex bolt method of leveling layout modules as I’ve used them before. Enjoyed meeting you and most everyone else and keep the videos coming. I use them weekly if not daily to reference ‘how to’ segments you and the MRVP gang cover!
Allan
Right and wrong are not words that should ever be used in model railroading; to (mis)quote some famous person(s), one person’s garbage is another person’s model railroad load.
Part of my benchwork is supported by (I think they are) 3/8" T-nuts and hex-head bolts. I CAN level the trackwork/benchwork by using a appropriately sized open-end wrench. Set a LOONG level - the longer the more accurate - on the benchwork to be leveled and adjust. NOTE: If you have three (3) levels it is MUCH easier to get a proper leveling - place two at 90 degrees to each other and the third at 45 degees (split the right (90 degree) angle in half. Most likely you will find yourself adjusting more than one bolt.
Now, why the comment in the first place? Hex-head bolts and T-nuts DO work. HOWEVER, I have found that on my flooring surface (individual vinyl tiles on 3/4" plywood (Can you say FROG?)) the hex-head bolts do move around somewhat when the benchwork is bumped - braced or not; and worse yet, the vinyl tile does compress over time making another leveling required.
One final comment - make every attempt to use the SHORTEST bolt possible when using T-nuts for leveling. Consider having to lift one section of benchwork 4+ (a very minor +) inches if you have to, for some unknown or unanticipated reason, remove the bolt after the benchwork is completed! If the bolt is extended three and a half (3/5) inches you should have replaced the leg before doing any leveling (but that is another story)
FROG? (n) 1. What people in the south consider a replacement for a basement; most common on houses with attached garages. 2. (F)inished (R)oom (O)ver the (G)arage
I have an idea for a new series of videos. It could be called Industry Insider. Basically, every month you would describe an industry, how it works, number of cars received/shipped in a day, modeling tips, and anything else that would be interesting. I have always wanted to know more about industries that are rail served, like what cars they receive and how often. I think that this would be a popular and informative series. Keep up all the good work!!
I see that you are just over 15 years out of calibration on your MG10 - How can we trust your readings with 15 year out of calibration tool. Just Saying 
- Part of the Tool Calibration team at my work, A uncalibrated tool is a broken tool. FYI:
I’m looking for a track plan for Stoney Creek RR and it’s not there on the database so check on it please
I enjoy seeing the Q&A and also enjoy the “behind the scenes” info about MRVP. It was also fun watching David put the adjustable “foot” in the wrong end of the t-nut duting the demo The info on the lighting valance is very good. If I was to completely rebuild my current layout I think that I would use the lighting valance partly because of the dust cover suggestion. Thanks MRVP and keep up the good work.
There still are a lot of great videos, but I miss round house and especially History according to Hediger. I think I saw he retired?
Also a question: How do I prevent derailments on my turnouts?
I have used T-nuts and bolts as leveling devices on both my layouts and modules for years but found early on the bigger the head of the bolt, the more stable they are and, as someone noted keep them as short as possible. I have had some that were on short legs collapse because they were screwed out too far. At one time the big box stores had some in their hardware assortments that had about a 1 1/2" disk on the end that swiveled and were great for uneven surfaces but, they have become very hard to find. Woodcraft has some similar hardware that I currently use that goes in a bracket on the side of the leg and has a slot in the top for adjustment but they are a bit pricey. Keep up the good work!
Allow me to second Charles Sapp’s “Industry Insider” idea. And I have an industry, or two, to suggest.
There is a maker of glass containers, on the south side of Burlington, WI., named Saint-Gobain Containers Inc. They receive covered hoppers - of what I assume is silica sand - via a branch off the Canadian National (former Wisconsin Central, former Milwaukee Road) main line that runs through Burlington. Interestingly that branch leaves the main very near to the Nestlés chocolate factory which also receives, and ships, via Canadian National.
Andrea Truman, there are a couple of options form making T-Trak modules.
First, most lumber retailers will cut the wood for you, for free or a small nominal fee.
Another option is pre-fab module kits. Check out T-Kits (http://www.t-kits.com/) or Masterpiece Modules(http://www.masterpiecemodules.com/) They make a number of different size module kits, and run from $15 to $45, depending on the size.
In an episode of Roundhouse Neil said There’s a list of the same railroad and very few others, that show in Model Railroader.
My question is… Is there a list that feature our favorite prototype railroads?
David,
Thanks for another good Ask MRVP video. I “believe” the feeling that there are less videos is the absence of former regular videos like Roundhouse and History according to Hediger. If people would do a video count they would find that newer titles have more than filled the gaps in replacing older titles.
Thanks once more and all of you at Kalmbach have a Blessed and safe Thanksgiving.
Mark
David Instead of Hex bolts in the T-nuts I used carrige bolts because of the rounded head you can put a cap on them and still have an adjustment. Could not find the feet at my local store.
Would you please get your colleagues over at FineScale Modeler to demonstrate some of the finishing and weathering techniques described in the recent Ultimate Guide to Finishing?
For example:
- Chipping (including the “hairspray technique”)
- Using poster putty and Silly Putty for masking
- Using Prismacolor pencils
- “Sludge washes”
- “Pin washes”
- Using Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish for decalling
- Blending oil paints with Turpinoid
- AK Interactive Washes & Chipping Fluid
- Mig Production Pigments
- Blu-Tak for masking
These things are mentioned in passing in the publication, but it would be very valuable to see them demonstrated.
One question I have been dying to ask (more like a request) for either an article for MR a video on MRVP is “What is the best way to build either a swing gate or a lift-out section?” Many track plans are now including these and I have been contemplating on adding one to my layout for an expansion to another section, and I would love to see how you guys (and gals) at MR would construct one.
George Ambroe from Pennsylvania
(Not Michele listed below )