I have several Athearn BART trains HO scale. They are about 50 years old now.
I have not done any model railroading in about 25 years. But read up a little now and then. I hope this is the correct forum for these questions.
I want to build a layout for these.
Is there are way to update the drive system from rubber bands to something more up to date?
I put pictures below for reference.
This method leads to derailments from the bands forcing the trucks to one side, if I recall. Also, the bands slip on the truck axels and drive bar, as well as stretch.
I seem to recall that the chassis is very similar to other model engines. If so could I swap out the chassis, and what model would that be.
Or is there a way to design a better solution. I do not mind making modifications.
One thing to consider is that the cabin shells are low profile, perhaps a 1/2" less tall than traditional engines.
The cabin ride on the small protrusion on either side of the motor, then secured by the end pieces. Also, not a good idea, but that is how it is.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks
Wow, never saw one of these. Here is a thread of interest:
Replacing Rubber Band Drive and Motor in Old Athearn Train |https://share.google/2QarSagyTNqFOK6Ya
The conversation includes many options, including changing the bands and/or the motor. I would measure it and see if another frame+drive would fit, like an old Athearn Budd car. EDIT: Forget that option, the Budd has the same or similar drive system.
Simon
Easiest, but not cheapest, would be to get adjustable-wheelbase âunderfloorâ drive trucks and graft the sideframes, or more likely detailed resin copies of sideframes, onto them. You might not need more than one powered truck per car. If you are planning to install detailed interiors and lights in these cars, which they deserve, this is probably the best approach.
An alternative would be to find geared locomotive trucks with the ârightâ wheelbase, that use a better drive system (such as driveshafts with universals). I would use a coreless motor for smooth low-speed and acceleration performance. Graft the sideframes as above.
If you want to adapt the components from a locomotive with âtank driveâ (for example that uses an internal motor to drive a truck at one end with a driveshaft under the car floor to the other).
In the interest of fair disclosure: you can 'gin up some intermediate shaft bearings for the rubber drive, and apply (and true up) some spools of greater diameter on the shaft that will reduce the turbo warp speed to something more seemly. You could probably use a drive belt made for rebuilding audio equipment such as tape decks once you know the length of the ânewâ belt path, which you could find with thread or similar material plus an allowance for tension.
It appears that this model may have been issued later in conjunction with Walthers.
See https://somehoscalemodelsgi.com/walthersathearn-ba210-walthers-athearn-powered.
HOSeeker.net has part diagrams for this model. See https://hoseeker.org/walthers/walthers6030rapidtransitbartcarpg1.jpg and
https://hoseeker.org/walthers/walthers6030rapidtransitbartcarpg2.jpg.
The second page of the diagram shows a part 19, power truck.
I donât know what that is or if it would work in your application, but posting it anyway.
Many thanks to everyone for the helpful replies!!
Woke_Hoagland, could you provide some links and pictures where possible to the suggestions you listed. I understand most of what you talk about, but have no idea where to look for such things.
This is a no rush project for me.
The Walthers trains run too high on the chassis. And look very strange rolling on the tracks.
Iâm going to stay away from those.
again thanks
The drive from a Proto 2000 RDC might work. It would have to be shortened.
Mark Vinski
Athearn never offered a BART model, these were offered by a guy (IIRC he worked for BART?) and were mounted to an Athearn RDC chassis. He made the shells himself out of aluminum. In theory any conversion for an Athearn RDC from bands to gears will work.
Hereâs a YouTube video showing the one-piece âpower truckâ in action.
Certainly not Rapido quality, but I thought it ran pretty well for what it is.
I would replace the motor, lube the parts, replace the plastic bands with new ones, and see what happens.
Simon
Thanks everyone.
Yes Iâll try the rubber bands again. Best start with the easiest fixes and then move up from there, if needed.
Could one of you helpful people provide a link to the correct motor to replace the old ones? ANd the universal joints? Also, 1 motor has lost its mounts and just sits from on the chassis. Would a new motor come with a new motor? Or how to find proper replacement.
My proposed track layout will include elevated track, like the real BART trains have. So Iâm not that sure rubber bands will drive these somewhat heavy trains up and down smoothly.
If I were to replace the chassis with something somewhat modern, what make and model engine should I look for? I do not know how, or want to cut a chassis to make it longer or shorter. My budget is pretty wide, but not infinite.
Please let me know your thought and additional suggestions. They are most appriciated.
Well, I assume since it appears these were not ârealâ Athearn models, but just a body someone produced to fit on the Athearn RDC chassis, I would be best to just try to pick up a relatively recent Athearn RDC either on Ebay or a train show / flea market. Any âblue boxâ Athearn RDC chassis is going to be an upgrade from the old rubber band drive.
I understand, now, about how these trains were made. Thanks, that info is very helpful.
I did some looking and all I can find for powered Athearn RDC are all HIF (rubber band drive) units. new and used blue box. They all do have the same undercarriage that mine do.
Nothing that is geared or direct drive.
Could you point me to a ârecentâ version?
Hereâs the latest BART cars out thereâŚ
https://rapidotrains.com/ho-scale/transit/bart-legacy-cars.html
Far be it for me to suggest how someone spends their time or money, and being an individual who frustrates easily and has very little patience, I think I might look at the Rapido option. Especially since you have qualms as to whether or not the conversion would be able to surmount your proposed grades.
That said, there was a company that made a gearing option for the Athearn RDC. Do a google searce for Ernst Gears for Athearn RDC.
Also have a look at Human Verification
Interesting discussion there.
Oh, and I clicked on the âhuman verificationâ thing and it appears safe and took me to where I needed to go. Donât know why it comes up as that.
Link to the Tenshodo truck mentioned (in the âMotors and Gearsâ section of the Roxey website):
From what I can see, if you want to upgrade the motor, you will need to find a dual shaft motor, with the correct shaft width for the u-joints. Perhaps the good folks at NWSL can help and provide you with the correct parts. I believe you can contact them via their Website.
Simon