I’ve got a nice running BB GP38-2 from 1994. I was wondering if I could put a GP7 shell on my 38-2 frame? I’d like to keep using the 38-2 drive if I could.
I can’t find an exploded diagram for a GP7 on the internet but the # for my 38-2 underframe is 46029
Thanks[:)]
Hi Dingoix,
The GP7 has a shorter wheelbase than the GP38-2 if I remember right… The short-tank Athearn GP38-2 frame also need to have the tank milled even shorter to make space for the air reservoirs…
If you are not afraid to hack up the GP38-2 frame to reposition the bolster centers and further shorten the tank, theoretically it’s possible. It would be a major, major job though.
Ok. That’s all I needed to know. It’s kinda disappointing but I wondered if a 7 wasn’t shorter.
Well heck, since you got a nice-running Geep 38, why not spruce it up instead?
Add on some good parts like a Cannon thinwall cab, hand-bent handrails, Smokey Valley stanchions, grabs, plow, etc., shoot on a nice paint scheme (considering how well your last paint job turned out), and pretty soon you have a new “pride and joy of the layout.” [|)]
I didn’t want to do that because I model 1968 and the only GeePs CGW had were 2 GP7s and 8 GP30s. But I guess I can display it & only run it occasionaly. I did paint it for IC.
Yeah, nothing wrong with a nice display model that is occasionally run.
Me, I model New York State railroading (lots of Conrail and Susquehanna action). But I do have a Southern Pacific GP38-2 that had been my pride and joy since 1988 which would be completely out of place on my layout. I still run it though now and then.
Well, it’s not my best engine so as soon as I get more motive power for 1968 I can display it. It’s my best Athearn, tho.
Use it for something else or sell it. The GP38-2 was not marketed until 1972. Another idea would be a ‘what if’ engine. What if the CGW was not merged into the C&NW and bought GP38-2 engines in 1972? A friend has a GE P40(passenger engine) painted in a green laser stripe scheme for the C&NW. He did it for a ‘fantesy’ contest sponsored by the C&NWHS. Looks sharp - but it is something that never existed!(sort of like the CGW SD70 in your signature line…).
Jim
Another viable option would be to backdate the GP38-2 into a GP38… Just fill up the water sight glass on the engineer’s side of the long hood and sand it smooth, get a Cannon Thinwall pre-Dash-2 cab without the rear overhangs, patch up the remaining gap behind the cab roof with some strip styrene, and replace the Blomberg M sideframes with Blomberg B’s. Replace the grilles, fans, paper filter box with the appropriate Cannon parts as necessary depending on prototype.
I’ve done a few GP38s this way, and they look much nicer than the old Atlas GP38 with the wierd notched fuel tanks and incorrect engineer’s side handrails.
Lots of possibilities with that nice Athearn BB Geep!
It has been my experience that Modern Atearn Components will fit into older athearn frames without any modification. The Exception being the old rubber band drive units. Why cant you take the motor and flywheels, the power trucks and swap them over into the GP-7 Frame? Then just shorten the drive line to fit, and install the GP-7 side frames. and you should have your sellf a good running upgraded runner.
James
I thought of a ‘what if’ engine but I’m going to stay prototypical for now. I’m not going to sell it. After all, I did paint it
Not the best paint job, but it works. here’s what it looked like before
James, I was hoping to be able to use the frame, trucks, and motor I already have and just put a different shell on it. I’m not going to part it out and put the components in another frame. Athearn GP7s aren’t that expensive and I may even use P2K GP7s (I can get P2K for $55)
You could do it as a leased unit, whether real or fictional.
Bob K.
[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by dingoix
If you are not fussy about the paint scheme, you can get them for $29.99. 91% Isopropyl Alcohol takes P2K paint off.