Hi Guys
I want to replace the wheels on a dozen or so Atheran blue box locomotives with some Northwest shortline nickel silver ones but what I thought would be easy ( and Im sure it is ) has proven for me to be confsuing as to which ones I need. Can anybody place a link to the exact ones I would need to do the swap out. Any help would be appreciated.
Like I was saying I have been looking at NWSL and walthers site an am more confused now then before I started looking,lol [:P]
Thanks
Jeremy
Go to Part 3 of the NWSL catalogue, then scroll down to Section 6 (“The Athearn Half Axle jungle”). There it describes the Athearn diesels and suitable replacement wheelsets.
If you don’t want scale or semi-scale width wheels (which require strict track standards) you need look only at those wheelsets with “110” as part of their description. Which particular ones you require will be determined by whether your locos have outside bearings (old-style with metal sideframes) or inside bearings (new style, with plastic sideframes).
Once you know the type(s) you need, you can choose whether to opt for the 42" diameter (same as the ones which you’re replacing) or the 40" ones, which are correctly scaled to match the prototype. Using the scale 40" ones may require adjustments to the coupler heights of your locos.
Wayne
Well, unless you have some really OLD Athearn locos with the outside bearing trucks (metal side frames instead of plastic), they all take the saem style wheel. So your own question really is 40 or 42" diameter. In general, the switchers are 40" and the others are 42", but the easiest way to find out is to look up the prototype specifications and see which size they had. Google the loco model, ie GP7, and you should find at least the Wikipedia entry for that model with the wheel size.
–Randy
I think the following website is a better reference for loco dimensions: http://www.thedieselshop.us/E.html
And a very quick look at only a few samples (up to SD50) seem to indicate that 40 inch was the more common prototype wheel diameter. I do believe that modern units do have larger wheel diameters.
Thanks for the help and links fellas I will have a look [Y]
One additional note; my local hobby shop was out of the NWSL wheels when I was about to do the same,
so it was suggested I try ‘JAY-BEE,’ cat. # 102. These are 40" NS with RP-25 contour, designed to fit Athearn, P2K GPs’ and Alco units. I’ve done three engines so far , they run well.
BE AWARE! If you put 40" wheels in the road units (GPs & SDs) you will have to adjust the coupler heights - not a simple thing on Athearn BBs. I recommend you go with the 42" direct replacements, if you don’t want to create a lot of extra work! You will really like the improvements with the NS wheels, smoother running, better electrical contact and less dirt on the track because there’s much less arching with the NS wheels vs the old sintered iron wheels.
Jeremy,
You can to the Athearn site find the HO parts listing and get your new wheel sets dirrectly from Athearn.These are either nickol silver or plated ,Either way they are very cost effective compared to the NWSL wheels.
I agree. The last replacement wheels I used were the current Athearn parts. A set of 12 (i.e. 6 axles worth), including new axle bearings and gears, was about $12 at the hobby shop.
The simplest way to find out which diameter of wheel you need is to (duh!) measure the ones you are replacing. I just measured the wheels from several old BB F-units and Geeps, and they scaled out to 41.5". Keeping in mind that 2 scale inches is only 0.023", I don’t think the difference between 40 and 42 inches is enough to require more than a wee bit of bending of the Kadee trip pin one way or the other. Certainly not any major surgery…
Not necessarily. For may years Athearn used 42" wheels in locos that should have had 40", so replacement with the same size merely repeats the same error. I find the difference noticeable, others may not.
If you’re replacing the wheels to make them more accurate to the prototype, you’re on target. However, if you’re replacing them to get rid of the sintered wheels, and improve running, then the difference, as my grandmother used to say, “wouldn’t be noticed from a trottin’ horse”. [:)] And even if it was, it still would require no major surgery to correct any coupler height difference.
BB couplers always have a tendency to be slightly low anyway. Why lower them further, Even if the coupler specs out to correct height, watch what happens under load. I just replace w/ the 42"
Remember that Kadee makes couplers with different “offset” shanks, where the coupler head is higher or lower than on normal No.5 couplers. Using these might alleviate the problem of the couplers sitting too low.