I was thinking of purchasing some Athearn 40’box car kits.I want to upgrade them by installing kadee #5 couplers.I also hate the metal part(name??) that wants to keep falling off.Someone said something about drilling a hole and using a screw to fix this.I think I understand it and I like the idea.What size/type screw would you use??Any other suggestions for making these inexpensive kits better??I can get the Athearn kits for $5.42 ea. and a similar Accurail kit for $8.50ea.After putting the katties on the Athearns(about$2.15 per car) its still cheaper to get the Athearns,but only about a $ a car.Is the Accurail worth it??Thanks for any advice.
If it’s inside the car, the metal weight should be straightened and then can be stuck to the floor with double-sided tape. If it’s underneath, straighten it and maybe paint it black. If the provided screws don’t hold it, you could glue it in or add some 2-56 screws.
I like the #5’s on the Athearns. The #148’s with whiskers work well too. On old cars, sometimes I have trouble with the metal clips. I’ve broken a couple and had to shave off the existing coupler pocket and ad a #5 draft gear box. Getting the height correct usually involves a couple washers between the trucks and the bolsters.
Jim
Accurail is probally the better car ,correct height on doors, no ugly claws on doors either. accurails roofwalks thinner also. Both athearn and accurail do take liberties in road names on cars though. If you gently squeeze the spring clip that holds couplers in place it should fit on coupler housing just fine, it will be a snug fit, but it should stay put.
The biggest improvement that can be made on an Athearn boxcar is to get rid of those awful door claws…they ruin the entire appearance/realism of the car even when viewed from a distance. I also replace the upper door guide with a combination of styrene strips that much more closely resemble the prototype but that process is a bit too complex to describe here.
As to Accurail cars, I generally perfer them over similar Athearn ones.
CNJ831
Well, not sure if you had the idea yet, but I would also suggest replaceing the wheels to metal. I have found that Proto 2000 wheels work pretty good for the Athearn BB’s. Makes a huge differnce in the free rolling ability, adds a bit of weight and keeps the wheels cleaner. Wont have a smuch gunk collecting on the wheel.
Big John - that’s a nice layout…
A REALY “Big” improvement to Athearn kits and to Accurail kits, etc would be to get rid of thoose UGLY moulded on ladders and grab irons and replace them with either ready made wire/plastic wire grabs and ladders or make your own. Accurail makes seperate grabs and ladders from acetal (I think thats how you spell it) plastic, thus grabs and ladders don’t look like a shelving uint! Also don’t forget the uncoupling leavers too!!
With these improvements your Athearn car should look real as!
Unfortinately for me, seperate ladders and grabs aren’t widely avaliable in hobby shops here in New Zeealand and is why I have to hunt around for cheap Intermountain, Red Caboose and Proto 2000 kits. As for making my own grabs, floquil paint and other RR paint is really expensive and rare at around $7 to $10.00 NZ for a small jar of paint!!
Sad isn’t it?
Replacement of the roof walk is probably the most noticable improvement you can make. Most of our veiwing of the railroad is more of an overhead look. I find those stock ugly thick plastic ones really take away from any Athearn boxcar. Replacement wheels and Kadee #5 is a must. If you opt to change ladders and grabs all the better. It seems Athearn(BB) boxcars end up w/ low couplers, just add a red fiber washer when assembling and usually comes out at perfect coupler height.
Bob K.
The problem with replacing ladders on athearns is a lot of cutting,filing and sanding just to get to carsides and ends,then add price if detail parts and you can build a branchline,red caboose or intermountain car. A branchline yardmaster car is a better car than both accurail and athearn, and should be priced close to accurail. You can file down roofwalk to a thinner profile,change stirrups to brass and add cut levers, swap brake reservior and brake cylinder under car,on old cars they were on wrong sides,cut claws off doors and remove half of bottom door guide and car will look okay.
I have no problems with the coupler box retaining clips. When they become loose (becuase they been removed too many times) just crimp them a bit with a pair of neddle nose bend one side at a time and you’ll be fine, Drilling and tapping for a 2-56 does not always work because of the car weight inside. P2K metal wheels are a must on athearn cars, I have them on ALL my cars.