Others have founf it comes from poorly balanced commutators and flywheels.
Yup. I’ve never heard much noise coming from the motor brushes, unless there’s too much spring tension. It’s off-center flywheels and shafts that are the biggest problem.
Bull! Another urban myth.Today I ran 2 BB GP38-2s at 1/2 amp for 6 hours straight.The motors was barely warm…If the motors was faulty they would have been warm to the touch or would have a “hot” motor smell.
Check this out.
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/Brakie-2/?action=view¤t=100_1060.flv
http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/Brakie-2/?action=view¤t=100_1061.flv
An Athearn with eccentric or unbalanced flywheels isn’t going to overheat, it’s going to roar and rattle the shell. Usually it’s the flywheels; sometimes it’s the armature, but as with anything that spins at a high RPM, balance is critical. The really old BB’s with the Jet motors and the flywheels mounted on the universal bushing were even worse, because plastic can’t be molded to tight enough tolerances. The universal shafts with the large spline coupling were also problematic. As for the video, it’s hard to tell anything from that. The video is dark, and the sound quality poor. I have old BB’s that run smooth as glass, and others that don’t. It was always hit or miss with them.
I’ve never had any problems with the commutators, though.
Nelson,So,you don’t believe what you see and hear because it proves Athearn can be quiet runners and therefore find fault with the videos…I have seen what poor motors do…The run hot or very warm to the touch.I am yet to see a Athearn motor run hot or even warm to the touch.
So,another Athearn urban myth busted.
I don’t know what we’re arguing about here. I love BB locos, and as I said have quite a few that run great. When they didn’t, the items I listed above could be the the problem.
I’m not going to argue the point any further. [;)]
I have several Athearn locos that use the new hex shaft drive and made more noise than any bb unit I’ve ever had. I simply sprayed a little 2-26 lubricant into the commutator of each unit and they quieted down immediatly. Nothing to do with the flywheels or shafts.
You might want to ask somebody. I found it at Home Depot after I had gone through the electrical section twice when I asked somebody. He pointed me right to it. It’s a dark blue bottle with white lettering.
-Smoke
I wish I had a dime for all of the people I did ask, and not just at Home Depot. I finally got 3-36 through Grainger.
[#oops] I hope you mean 2-26! [D)]
Larry: How would you know you were using 1/2 amp? What meters are you using??
Don,I will need to check the brand name(even though I don’t see why its important to you) but,rest assured a 2 unit consist of Athearn GP38-2 was pulling 1/2 amp and I can read a amp meter.
I concur with BRAKIE; the nominal current flow of healthy Athearn units varies between 0.120 amps and 0.180 amps per unit at operating speeds. I use a Fluke 77 multimeter.
I have always been disappointed with Athearns spotty quality control over the years. But they really need a different motor finally.
Unfortunately no one else makes SD40T-2’s (which the new ones have nice body). So until Athearn changes motors we are stuck with them.
BTW, I used to hear people using TV Tuner Cleaner on the commutator also for better running and quieter sound. Another person took it out and polished it. It always comes back to the cummutator.
The 2-26 seems to work well on all things electric.
I got a re-motored Athearn BB on e-bay. The unit had a proto-power west can motor and the top of the shell filled with lead(yes it tends to sway when running). I put in a decoder and in short order, blew the decoder climbing a hill. The real problem was it’s power usage. It was a surprising power hog, well over an amp on the flat with no cars. I had never seen anything suck juice like that. I put in another decoder (an older MRC 350, rated at 2 amps, see, I told you guys they still had their uses) and, while it ran fine, it still sucked the power.
On day, after reading this thread and getting and using 2-26, I decided, for kicks and the fact I had nothing to lose, to put some 2-26 on the motor. Now this is a sealed motor, so I just put a couple of drops on the shaft, spun the shaft and let gravity do it’s thing. Since I couldn’t reach the communicator directly, I didn’t think it would do any good. WRONG! The voltage draw dropped by over two-thirds, to under one-half amp.
I don’t know how it works, but I’m not complaining. I also rub a cloth with 2-26 on it on the rails after I clean them with alcohol. Works great, with no visible arching, slipping or dead spots and it’s much quicker than gleaming. Again, not complaining.
If it works, do it.
I am going to try this, I have had major issues with my Athearn engine. I am not happy with it at all. When it moves around the track it makes a loud static noise constantly. The B unit is not even being used since the first time I used it smoke came rolling out of it. I will not buy another. I have better luck with proto 2000. I have tried to work and inspect my Athearn but i am not very expierenced. I like the engine but it is super noisy and the b unit sound comes on but does not move. Plus I have to buy a booster to program them cause the Zeypher is unable to program the engines.
Bring Up My Post