I have an ATHG Santa Fe F3 Freight Diesel in the Blue/Yellow Cigar Band Scheme. Runs great, but on the engineer’s side the grill is starting to come off towards the cab entry door.
Can it go back on? If yes then what type of glue should I use to fix it with? Any of you had this problem before?
Thanks for your help
If the grills are metal, CA, if styrene, one of your favorite styrene cements, I’m a bondene guy.
Don’t make a mess with too much cement. Use a little bit on a microbrush or a straight pin or toothpick.
Hi,
Manufacturers have been challenged trying to keep these thin, etched metal parts from coming “unstuck” like yours has. They expand and contract at different rates than the plastic and become detached or they buckle when the bond does not “give”.
I have had success with Formula 560 Canopy Cement. It dries clear and stays flexible. As Henry noted above, use a pin or very sharp tooth pick and only apply tiny dabs.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/zap-formula-560-canopy-glue-paapt56
Lately I’ve been using this tacky cement for things like this as well.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/go2_glue/overview/Go2-Glue.htm
Loctite GO2 Glue.
In my experience, trying to use ACC type cement can be frustrating and sometimes will leave a fogged finish on the painted surface. Styrene cement won’t hold the etched steel very well.
Good luck, Ed
Thanks for the above suggestions and links, Ed. [Y]
I recently installed some KV Models etched-metal detail parts on a Stewart VO-660 switcher. I tried CA but it didn’t hold particularly well, as the grill popped back off with only slight pressure from the inside of the shell - even after 24 hours. I then tried Gorilla 2-part 5-min. epoxy with much better success.
Course it will dry more rigid than the canopy cement. It’s also a little more challenging to apply evenly so that you don’t add either too little (and not get enough surface adhesion)…or too much (and have epoxy ooze onto the paint surface.
Tom
Contact cement, applied sparingly and following the manufacturer’s directions, works well, and stands up to handling and temperature variations…
Wayne
So Formula 560 Canopy Cement is my best bet then?
After applying the glue in small amounts where it’s needed, shall I lay the locomotive on it’s side so the cement can dry?
I’m with Wayne on sparingly using contact cement. In fact, I’ve made this very repair on a few of mine with it.
The question you ask is the difference. You can let the 560 dry some and it will act a little like contact, but it will need to be held in position until set. That’s rather more hard with a piece of screen wire
Testors Glue would not hold in a sreen in too well? A 1.05 tube of Contact Cement is the one to use?
I am reviving this thread because I am having the same problem on a pair of Athearn Genesis F3A and F3B locos.
Since they were still under warranty when the problem first occurred, I sent them back to Athearn (Horizon Hobby) for repair. Not long after I received them back, the same problem reoccurred.
It looked like the repair was made with some sort of sticky glue that I was able to remove, so I tried my own repair with Alene’s Tacky Glue.
That seemed to be the answer for a brief time but then the screens began to separate from the body of the locomotive once again.
ATSFGuy, were you able to find a permanent repair for your locomotive?
Has anyone else found an adhesive that holds long term?
Rich
Hey Rich! Good to see you’re doing well. Regarding the Genesis F unit grills, they’re meant to move with current temperatures around them. That being said, you should still be careful. I’m not sure if the new releases have warping issues as I go for the early to mid 2000’s Genesis F unit releases. I’ll have to check the unit I repaired to see if the glue held up. I ran it at one of our club shows before Covid and I didn’t see a problem. Anyway I’ll check again and get back to you.
If Testor’s glue isn’t good for repairs, do you have any other model glue recommendations I should consider?
Thanks for getting back to me, ATSF.
So far, I have only tried Alene’s Tacky Glue, but that failed to hold the grills in place long term. The etched metal grills against the plastic shells pose significant challenges. I will have to experiment with the different adhesives suggested on this thread.
Rich
Rich:
I found my Santa Fe Genesis F3A Unit from 2019. I pulled it out of storage because the couplers need to be changed and ended up changing the others on the other A-B-B units as well.
Here is what the white sticker in the plastic wrap had to say about the grills:
"The prototypical stainless steel grills are designed to move with temperature changes. If they bow due to significant temperature changes, when the model is returned to normal room temperatures, the grills will adjust and remain flat
indefinitely.”
What part of your house is your layout located in? Certain weather and air temps may also have an effect as well.
Thanks for checking.
My layout is in the basement which has poured concrete walls and floor. It is centrally air conditioned and heated, humidified in the winter and dehumidified in the summer. So, the temperature and humidity down there is consistent with the rest of the house.
I will try some methods and adhesives mentioned in this thread. If that all fails, I am going to go back to Athearn.
Thanks again for checking and getting back to me.
Rich
I sent an email to Athearn on Friday to discuss alternative adhesive methods. Athearn emailed me back today and said that they always rely on that double face tape.
A video was included with the email demonstrating how they remove and reapply the stainless steel screens.
So, I am going to try the double face tape method first before trying the suggested adhesives offered on this forum. I have previously removed the adhesive residue with Goo Gone, so I will be starting from scratch.
I will report back with the results.
Rich
Any way to share that video?
I thought about posting the video, but I would have to check with Athearn first which I will do.
Rich
Thanks. I have some etched parts that I need to attach.
Out of curiosity, is that video something they have on their website, or a secret document they only tell people about during the full moon?
Good question . It is not a professionally done video nor s secret document (LOL). What it is, is a workshop video showing s technician removing a bowed stainless steel grille with a pair of tweezers and then re-applying the grille on the existing double face tape residue. Interesting, but pretty much a common sense approach. I am planning to email back to Athearn to get additional detail on application techniques.
Rich