Athearn HO PRR FM TrainMaster

I’ve acquired a pair of Athearn TrainMasters [:)] (new), one powered and one dummy. I’m installing a Digitrax DH142AT decoder in the power unit and plan to install a Soundtraxx [:D] system in the dummy.

A number of issues [:(] -

Since these are PRR units, they are supposed to run long nose first. Athearn made all theirs, regardless of railroad, for short nose first running. I understand that with DCC that is really not a problem. The problem is the headlight. A. It’s too bright. B. It’s on the wrong end of the engine. I thought of just reversing the shell but it’s assymetrical. I could drill 4 new attachment holes but then the fuel tanks don’t line up. So my hope is that someone who reads this post has already dealt with the problem.

Regarding the sound unit for the dummy, the dummy has plastic wheels. Should I just look for a scrapped power unit and salvage the wheels and pickups or MU to the power unit[?]

Your suggestions are invited. Thanks for reading the post.

MK

Since your going to the trouble of installing a decoder you need to get rid of the Athearn headlight anyway. Insatll either bulbs or LEDs in both ends. Then you have correctly operating lights. I would piggyback the sound in the powered unit too. That way you can run one unit and have the sound. Also then you don’t have a sound unit with no power.

The headlight is an easy fix.[:D]

  1. Remove light bulb
  2. Break the light bracket off
  3. Put new lights where you want them.[:D]

For the dummy, since the Trainmasters have always had metal sideframes, you’d have to replace the entire trucks and take the gears out, if you want dummy pickup. (Athearn dummies have plastic bearings, which insulates electricity)

MU the two would be less expensive and quicker, but that’s 12 less pickup wheels. But you still have 12 wheels left picking up power in the powered unit, so you shouldn’t have any problems.[:D]

So all I can say is, do whichever one you want.[:D]

Add Tomar pick up shoes to the dummy.

Get rid of the AT part of the decoder, and solder wires to the trucks.

Make sure you insulate the lower motor brush properly, or you will be buying a new decoder.

Hardwiring the two units together would make a nice model, you could have speakers in both - plenty of room, and appropriate lighting effects for either direction. You are up to six wires between them now, but there are MU and brake connection, so easily disguised. Use dummy couplers between them.

To All,

Thanks for the really good tips and info! [:)]

MK

Good idea to get rid of the headlight. Turns out that the stock headight, when modified with the Digitrax decoder, binds on the “glazing” insert in the cab. Even after much judicious bending there really isn’t sufficient room. So, the headlight is gone! Can you recommend a source for LED’s that would be suitable? I also like the idea of sound in both units… that would really be cool.

I definitely plan to MU the two units and have the sound in both (should really impress the guys at the club). How would you install the speakers?

On another note, this is only my 2nd diesel, I’m really a steam guy, but hey, I love all trains. The 1st is a Cary PRR SW1500 with Athearn drive that I couldn’t resist. It runs as smooth as silk and weighs a ton! It will probably be my next DCC conversion. The TrainMaster was given to me (for 2 bucks) by a friend and has caused a sequence of events that has led to this post. I now have so many DCC conversions to do that I had better live to 100! At least my wife always knows where to find me!

MK
mrif