I found this link after doing a quick google search: http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Athearn/CF7/Athearn%20Ready-to-Roll%20CF7_WOWDiesel-EMD-KA.html
and it raised some questions. What is isolating the motor from the frame? Will the current light bulbs melt the shell?
The Athearn RTR DCC Ready locos shouldn’t require isolation of the motor since they come ready to plug in a decoder and go. I was puzzled by the statement “Please note: Audio is produced equally from both the cone and driver side of the speaker. Therefore a complete enclosure around the speaker will result in poor audio quality and lower volume” in the TCS link. It seems to contradict the current standard of baffling one side of the speaker.
Joe
If it’s an Athearn RTR then remove the 9 pin shorting board and plug in your 9 or 8 pin decoder of choice. Also remember to solder all of the black clip connections on the lighting board and consider replacing the bulbs with LEDs. Personally I prefer to take the stock lighting boards and toss it in the bin. My simple home brew boards are solid performers compared to the mass produced Chinese boards. My LEDs, my fiberoptics and my resistors.
I was planning on tossing the Athearn board anyway. The shell on the GP-38 didnt fit with the NCE decoder, and I dont see this one being any different. I ordered .06 diameter fiber optic tube from MB Klein, as well as a roll of 1/4" kapton tape. Already had a spare set of LEDs hanging around, which I will file off the round tip.
Now that you don’t want my help…here is a hint…seal the light source, not the shell. I use 4mm heat shrink tubing to suck on my fiberoptics to 3mm LeDs from China. A light sanding with fine grit will polish the lenses.