This past weekend I went and picked up a NY Central RS3. I’ve been wanting a RS3 for my layout for a long time. Always liked the looks of them, and this new one from Athearn looked like it would be a good deal.
I guess it’s not!
Most of my new Locos have been P2K, Athearn Genesis, or my new favorite Atlas. I decided on this RS3 on looks alone and for that I’m going to have to pay.
Careful break-in on my new roller bearings, slight lubrication, and the purchase of a NCE decoder and I was ready to run DCC. The DCC install went without a hitch. Programming the 4 digit number, no problem, setting the lighting CV’s and other CV’s, No problem. My fingers danced over the buttons of my MRC Prodigy Advance controller. But talk about GROWL! I can’t believe this thing growls so much at low speed. I played with my SV, and torque kick setting to get things to try and smooth out. I’ve gotten it better, but it’s still no where near the class of anything else I have on the layout. It even seems that I’m getting intermittant pick up with this RS3 also cause it stops dead on the tracks in a few areas where my other Locos just breeze through.
My LHS has a modded RS3 where he brings the power up from the trucks and goes right to the decoder board. I MAY try this. I just wonder if it’s worth my time and effort.
I went and then placed my newly acquired GP-40 R&S Atlas loco on the layout and did some of the same CV set ups and such to get that one up to speed. The GP-40 was flawless, near perfect in my eyes just like it’s twin GP-40 I got last year at this time.
I guess the moral of the story here is to buy what you know works the way you want it right out of the box!
Sure, it’s always fair to compare a $90 loco (RS-3) to a $130 loco (GP40). Wow, what a surprise, the $130 loco is a better runner! I am shocked, shocked, that it is the case. [:)]
More seriously, the Athearn RS-3 does not have the best drive in the world…which is why it’s $40 less. However, with the usual Athearn “tweaks” to smooth out the drive, it makes a good deal for the price. Remember, this is the most accurate plastic RS-3 on the market…the Atlas (and the old Stewart) RS-3 is a farce by comparison.
If you want to know about the “tweaks”, essentially you have to put an abrasive (like pearl drops or lapping compound) in the gears, let it run a while, then wa***he abrasive out completely. Reassemble the model, and you’ll have a much quieter loco. Athearn uses styrene gears that can be slightly misformed in the casting process, and some need to be modified with the above method in order for a quiet ride.
Understandably so in the comparison if you look at Price only at that is RETAIL. I got my GP-40 for $89 with the Silver Series decoder. The RS3 I Paid $69 and added a Decoder to it for another $24. So for a given price, I would have thought I could have gotten near the performance out of the Athearn. I’ve spent 3 days so far trying to make things better on the Athearn.
Yes, I love the looks and the detail of the RS3 from Athearn, and yes…I will probably spend more time and effort on this one to get it to run better.
The reason I posted is just to make folks aware that some Locos are dogs and some are real peaches. I guess I had just hoped for more!
Thanks for the info Paul! Rest assured that I will continue to work on it.
Sorry to hea rabout your problem. And that is a drag too. I have been looking at the Athearn line of newer stuff but I havent been hearing good things. Kinda has me worried.
As far what Paul writes, well maybe the logic is good, but in reality, I have seen the oppsite so his thoery doesnt hold. Surprisngly, two of my smoothest runners are my older RTR GP-60M’s. They are part of the DCC plug sn dplay versions that I got about 2 years ago. They run great. All though my Atlas Master Series GP38 that is supposed to be a 100 dollar engine? Well, that sucker hums almost as bad as a BB.
Now, there are two factors that could be causeing issues… There might be noise coing from the drive it self, or it could be the decoder. You are on the right track with trying to alter the CV’s to alter the voltage to the engine. I would maybe try and expierment by taking a deocoder of another engine that runs quiet and try it in the RS3, see what it does. Thats how I found, much to my dissapoinment, Digitraxx altered they newer decoders. They now cause my RTR engines to Howl like crazy.
The problem was that she howled before I put in the Decoder, and it still howls after words. Actually, it is slightly better with the decoder because it has the amps and voltages needed right from the get go.
Chris - I bought both of the NYC rd#'s. I just put them both back on the track to verify the motor noise level again and I just can’t hear any more motor sound than any of my P2k’s. I have about two hours each running time since I got them last month. Maybe that is the diff. Possibly you got one with gremlins in the motor[:D] Hopefully with a little break in it will smooth out for you. I love them and have put sound in both. Lots of room as compared to my Kato Rs-2’s (tight squeeze but I got sound in them too).
Terry[8D]
Wait, I thought these were supposed to have the NEW RR drives in them, wires, not clips, and the new universals to be quieter than the old Blue Box drives. Is this not the case? Starting to make my $20 MDC kit witht he P2K drive sound better and better (not that it ever was bad, not at that price!).
I really thought the 6 hours of break-in on the rollers would have helped her quiet down already, but it’s not. I think the Pearl Drops and a closer inspection of the motor mount is due this Saturday.
Nothing is more aggravating to me than a pretty Face with a mean disposition! LOL!
I am confident that something will turn up and I’ll get it! Report to come…