Hi,
I just got a Ahearn SD45-2 with mrc sound board and will be replacing it with tsunami. And in the process of checking it I had wrecked the McHenry Couplers that it has. What number coupler are these. And is it me or is the body glued to the chassis for some reason and the pass through for the coupler boxes really tight.
Thanks for any info.
#58 or #5 couplers.
David B
I use Kadee #148 whisker couplers, which have a slightly thinner shank than the #5.
The McHenry’s that come with the Athearn locos are the # 41 couplers. You’ll get plenty of responses telling you to put on some Kadees instead. If you choose to go that route, use any of the Kadee couplers that the other posters have suggested.
Refer to the loco diagram, there may be some screws holding the shell in place, even after you take off the coupler boxes.
It is not you, they are a tight fit. I have a long hood SD 45-2, to install the front coupler I have to hold the engine by the hood and front truck and squeeze to get the pocket in. Rear on mine is easier than the front. I use Kadee number 5’s.
Mine is the none sound RTR version, shell is only held on by the coupler pockets.
Becarfull you don’t bend the horn on the cab with the engine being up side down.
Cuda Ken
The coupler boxes are tight. I used Kadee 148s. I too will be replacing the MRC decoder with a QSI tomorrow. Fortunately I won’t ned to do this on future Genesis units.
I had the same issue with an Athearn SD40-2. The fit being tight is, I believe, only part of the problem. I think that the body paint also acts to solidify the box in the pilot. I also replaced the McJunks with a Kadee whisker coupler.
Thank you all for the warning and the words of advice on this. I have a pair of said locos (the RTR version) by Athearn. I don’t intend to be convering to DCC or sound right at the time but it is good to know this when I do.
Ken,
This sounds like the voice of experience talking. Here’s my solution to that problem. This thing works great and stopped the majority of the broken locomotive accessories.
As an alternative to the Micro Mark cradle, I took 2 2-inch wide scrap pieces of extruded foam and cut a 1-inch deep half oval into each piece so that when the foam strips are set on edge, they make a cradle.
Back to the stock couplers, the Mc Henrys and similar others used by Atlas with non metal construction tend to flex under load and uncoupling ensues.
Jeff, I made my own cradle and still bent the horns. Even on foam, I had to push down so hard to get the pocket in the horns still bent. That is why I now hold the hood and truck when I install the pocket.
Ken
Wow, that is tight. I’ve had to do some pushing on certain models but never that hard.