Guys,
just bought an Athearn SD50 in DRGW paint (newest release). Out of the box Im very pleased, however, when I add it to a consist (Athearn AC4400s) there is a noticable amount of play / slack in the SD50 coupling pockets. So much so that they soon uncouple themselves. My other Athearn locos are just fine… Is this a regular glitch? and is there a quick fix? Thanks
Tony
Further to my post above, I have just fitted a Blair Line timber grade crossing in Peco code 100 track and the front coupler wont clear it on the SD50, the rear one also fouls it. Am I missing something obvious here?
Tony
Try using Kadee couplers. The cheap plastic ones may be causing the problem. Also check to make sure the coupler box is screwed in tight.
Thanks, any suggestion on which # kadees to try?
Further to my woes, if I haul more than three cars the rear wheelset jumps off the track at every opportunity!!! [banghead]
A very frustrated Tony…
This last observation suggests to me that your curve radius might be too tight. For that locomotive, that is.
If the rolling resistance upwards of three cars causes the rear end of the diesel to swing slightly left, it brings the outer frame edges on the rear truck up against something that it doesn’t quite meet when the trailing weight is less. I think that is what is happening, as weird as it must seem.
Crandell
The derailment happens on any track (curved, straight, crossovers etc) and my minimum radius is Peco 3rd radius. All my other Athearn locos (and other brands) perform faultlessly…even with 18 cars in tow! Hence my frustration…
Tony
Check that the wheels are in gauge with an NMRA gauge.
Thanks for that, I will see if I can source one via the `net and get back to you with the results.
Tony
Guys,
back to back measures .577 to .580 All my other Athearn locos are typically .573 to .575
Emailed Athearn with the data and waiting for a reply now (reluctant to start messing with a brand new loco incase voids the waranty). Also noticed a lot of body wobble. Almost as if it isnt sat squarely on the trucks. Non of my other Athearn roster does this. Perhaps it was built on a Monday morning? or a Friday afternoon eh? 
Tony
Not sure if this may be your problem, and is not related to the road name on your model, but I had four Athearn SD70 models with warped trucks. The only solution was to replace them. At that time, Athearn would not admit they had a problem and would not provide free replacements.
There is another thread active right now indicating that the new Athearn SD70ACe model also suffers from warped trucks and a lot of users are dissatisfied with it, so apparently nothing has changed.
My SD70s with warped trucks was shortly after the death of Irv Athearn when the company was being mismanaged by some of the employees. Since then, Athearn has become the property of Horizon Hobbies.
But as a result of that experience, Athearn lost a lot of my business and continues to do so as I read of other problems with their newest products.
Doesnt sound promising for me then… I will wait and see the response from the email I sent them, if I get a response that is! The warped trucks idea would explain all of my difficulties. At work at mo so cant check the catalogue number of the loco on their website. It may well be old shop stock, it is the model with the factory fitted jumper cables
Tony
Can you just return it to the place you bought it from? That’s what I do, if it doesn’t work out of the box, it’s going back the the LHS. I’ve never had any problems returning defective items.
Yup, I could return it but, the retailer doesnt have, nor can get another. I have looked out for one in this scheme for a while. Im reluctant to buy from US as UK customs hit me with an import duty (I dont mind paying…) but our postal service charges a criminal handling fee too! Thats why Im hoping to get Athearn to rectify it.
Tony
LO LO TONY IF YOU CANNOT RETURN THE LOCO YOU ARE STUCK WITH IT… FIRST YOU MUST BE PREPARED TO WORK ON THE LOCO NO USE HAVING A LOCO YOU CANNOT EXCHANGE OR RETURN SO IT IS NOW UPTO YOU TO DIG IN…
1ST LOOK AT THE LOCO MOVE THE BOGIES FROM SIDE TO SIDE THEY SHOULD MOVE FREELY CHECK TO SEE IF THEY ARE BINDING OR HITTING SOMETHING
LOOK ALONG THE CHASSIS TO SEE IF EVERYTHING LOOKS SQUARE
CHECK THE BOGIES / WHEELS ARE FLAT ON A LEVEL SURFACE GLASS IS BEST FOR THIS A MIRROR OR PHOTO FRAME USE A SMALL SCREW DRIVER TO RAISE EACH AXLE AT A TIME SEE IF THEY ARE ALL EVEN
IF YOU CANNOT FIND SOMETHING WRONG THEN IT IS TIME TO PULL THE LOCO APART
REMOVE THE BODY AND CHECK THE CHASSIS / BOGIES
CHECK THE MOTOR / DRIVE SHAFTS… IF THEY LOOK OK REMOVE THEM MARK THEM FIRST FOR CORRECT REPLACEMENT
WITH THE MOTOR OUT CHECK THE CHASSIS / BOGIES AGAIN BY PLACING THEM ON A PEICE OF GLASS AND MOVE THE BOGIES FROM SIDE TO SIDE CHECK FOR BINDING
NOW CHECK THE WHEELS… IF YOU DONOT HAVE A WHEEL GAUGE IT IS EASY TO MAKE ONE… GET A PIECE OF STYRENE AND A KD WHEEL SET OR EVEN PROTO WHEEL SET AND MAKE YOUR OWN GAUGE TO FIT THESE WHEELS THIS SHOULD GIVE YOU SOME IDEA… IT WILL AT LEAST LET YOU KNOW IF ONE OF THE LOCO WHEELS IS TOO FAR OUT OF GAUGE
NEXT STEP IS TO CHECK THE GEAR TRAIN THIS MEANS REMOVING THE GEARS / WHEELS FROM EACH BOGIE… DONT FORGET TO ID EACH PART CHECK FOR ANY WARPING OR ANYTHING THAT IS WRONG… PUT THE WHEELS BACK INTO THE BOGIES WITHOUT THE GEARS SEE IF THEY RUN SMOOTHLY… PUT THE BOGIES INTO THE CHASSIS SEE IF THEY RUN SMOOTHLY WHEN YOU PUSH THE LOCO AROUND CURVES AND THRU POINTS
IF YOU HAVE NOT FOUND TH
Peter,
great vid! My SD50 is now on its way back to the retailer. . .
Tony