Jeez! Did I waste 75 Bucks on a Loco.? On a previous Post, I asked if my new Athern RS-3 would operate better with DCC than with an N scale power pack. I got a couple of disturbing answers back suggesting that I should have purchased a different Vendor. Now I have done some research prior to this, the RS-3 seemed to be just what I wanted. An upgradeable Road Switcher. I’ve seen nothing In MR or any place else about quality such as Consumer reports that said I would get more “Bang fo my Buck”. Is there anywhere I can see comparison specs on same type Locos,from different Mfg’s.
The Atlas RS-3 may have a better drive, but the Athearn RS-3 beats the Atlas head over heels in details and price.
They “anywhere” is the “'Net.” However, I would recommend that you go to dedicated N scale forums for N specific questions, as this forum is much like the magazine that hosts it: focused on HO.
Here’s four options:
www.nscale.net (the best N scale exclusive forum I’ve found)
www.atlasrr.com (Click on the forums tab, then forums link, the the N scale forum)
www.the-gauge.com (awesome scratchbuilders here)
www.trainboard.com
The Athearn RS-3 is very smooth running. It has the new ‘hex line’ drive train. Your problem is that cheap N gauge train set power pack. It should run nice when you use a good power pack.
If there is a drive line ‘bind’ in it, return it and get another one.
Jim
Just get a better power pack and it’ll run supurbly.
Either of those 2 brands are much much better than the Atlas engine.
TO: Bikerdad, I do have an HO locomotive. I’m just running it on an N scale power pack. I do use the internet for most of my research but, I have found this MR forum to be the very best place to get the help I need and get it fast. What a great resource this is, and not unappreciated by a Newbie like myself.
To: Shemanhill, I don’t quite understand your reply. Which 2 Brands?
To: All who have replied, I thank you and really appreciate the comments and answers.
Bill In Miami
I really didn’ t explain my meaning in the other post I guess. The Athearn Blue-Boxes use open frame motors, and have a rougher drive line and less accurate gearing than the Kato, Atlas, and Proto 2000. The others use closed can motors, and very tight drive lines. If you use your fingers, you can get some play in the Athearn’s drive lines, even the hex (I couldn’t tell it was any better than the old system). The tight drive and smoother motor make the Kato and Atlas nearly silent when they run, unless they are sound equipped. On DCC, any motor will pull much better at low RPM, because it has the full current available at any speed. The lights will stay on all the time, and can be programmed to be directional. You can also run multiple trains at one time, and they can all be doing something different instead of having them all running one direction or stopped like it would be with DC. There are several posts on here giving detailed descriptions of how DCC works, but to put it short, your track has somewhere between 15-20 volts AC power (depending on the system you get) and each locomotive has a decoder in it that converts the power to DC for your lights, and changes the DC polarity to give your motor direction. It gives you many variables of operation so everything does exactly what you want it to, but you might want to get used to running it and get a feel for your system before programming those into it.
Hope that helped, and this is a great place for a newbie to learn a lot and learn it fast, so we hope to see you often,
Greg
Thanks Greg; I just read a two part artical on the Web about DCC. Having recently been rebitten by the MR Bug, (the last time was in the early 50’s) I MUST HAVE DCC. Even though I’ve only got room for a modified Time Saver shelf Layout. What better way to spend my Social Security Check. As Johnny Cash sang, “I’ve fallen into a burning ring of Fire.” The Flames growing higher! [;)] [;)] [;)]
If I was going to build a time saver, I think I’d stick with a GOOD DC pack.
Except for the old yellow box Atlas RS-3’s, Kato never made an RS-3. Atlas and Athearn make RS-3’s.
Kato made an RS-2 - BUT the LL-Proto 1000 RS-2 is better (much) than the Kato RS-2.
An RS-2 and RS-3 are distinctly different locomotives - as is the RS-1 - they are all different.
His RS3 is an Athearn RTR with the new drive and a DCC plug, not a blue box.