Hi all:
I have been using Atlas track and turnouts for the past two years on my railroad without any significant problems. The track is mounted on Midwest cork roadbed, Homosote and 3/4" plywood. When I turn the railsounds off there is very little sound from the actual train running on the rails. The track is screwed into the Homosote. However, I probably could remove the scews now since I have just about finished ballasting the track.
Sam
If you are still running that track on the carpet, I would suggest putting something in under the track to protect the carpet. Otherwise, you will have black stains on your carpet. If you are a bachelor, no problem. But if there is a lady in the house…
Earl
LOL! That’s why its in the trainroom…
This is just temporary, as soon as I have the time I have to cleanup and start building the main layout… this is just to see how things work - that track will eventually become this year’s Christmas layout.
OK fellas… an update here.
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Switches:
I have an O45 and an O54 switch and they are WONDERFUL! The detailing is spectacular and there are no problems with switch machines falling apart. They are very well built and you really can’t tell the difference between trains rolling over the switches or on the regular track.
Crossing:
I have an 22.5 degree crossing, detailing is excellent, don’t like that you have to trim ties to get the track to work with the crossing. Also the inner track of the X are not ties, they are solid rails and the track connectors do not attach to them, which kind of looks strange.
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Update on track… be careful when assembling the track. It is very easy to push a track connector too far and they will cause the rails to seperate from the ties. Also the 1.25 and 1.75 track are delicate as well as the rails can start to move on you, all I had to do was push the rail back with the ends of a needle nose pliers closed.
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Updated review - I still like this track system. I will be disassembling the mock-up of the Christmas layout in the next day or two so I can get the benchwork built and then start building the underlayment for the roadbed. We’ll see how the whole setup holds up to a couple setups and dissassembly sessions… more to come.
There is a considerable difference in traction between nickel silver rail (Atlas uses) and steel rail. The nickel silver is just plain slicker. I’ve proven this time and again in HO. The same locomotive will pull the least on nickel silver rail, more on brass rail, and the most on steel rail. Substituting steel drive wheels for nickel plated also makes a positive difference.
Not that it means a hill of beans on my 4x8 layouts. Train length is usually too small for differences in traction to matter. And I use tubular on the grades, anyway.
just my experiences
Fred W
lionroar88, B&O baldwin shark nose, made by who?
Williams
thanks ive been looking for some clasic B&O loco’s, and the shark nose looked great.