I am building a layout, thus far have used atlas code 83. I would like to add a curved turnout but only shinohara sells it. Are Atlas and Shinohara code 83 easily compatable? Any warnings?
As I understand it yes…sort of. From a strictly physical standpoint they will connect to each other but the ties on the SHinohara tracks are a bit thinner than the Atlas ones. You will need to put small shims under the Shinohara switch to even it out. I am pretty new to modern day MR so I’m no expert but I do have this exact issue as I am using Atlas flex track with Shinohara switches and this is what the gent at the store told plus I’ve seen it mentioned on several websites so I am pretty sure its the truth. Good luck.
The difference in thickness of the ties between the two,are as minimal, as three sheets of printer copy paper. Just tested it. I have a few on my layout and found the correct match, from some shirt cardboard. Of all places, a Dunkin Donuts box. Eat the donuts,get fat and save the box for your layout track. You could even use the package that the Walthers Shinohara curved turnout came in.
Frank
BTW: [#welcome] [#welcome] To The Forums, to both of You!
The Atlas ties are thicker - by .017". I used some .015" styrence to shim up the Shinohara turnout to match. The base of the rail on the Atlas track is a little wider as well, but you Atlas rail jointer should work just fine.
Jim
[#welcome] Welcome aboard.
The precise difference is 0.017 inches. Atlas ties are thicker to allow their Code 83 to be the same height as their code 100 flex from railhead to tie bottom.
If you ever have reason to connect Atlas to Shinohara flex track end-to-end you will encounter the same situation. It requires the same solution.
EDIT: I see I was pre-empted by Brother Bernier.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Have you checked into Peco curved turnouts? I have a couple of them on my layout.
I bought some 0.015 styrene sheeting (which you can cut with scissors) for my 20 or so W-S turnouts connecting to Atlas flextrack. But I went the cardboard route instead, indeed the turnout box cardboard is just right. I traced the ties onto it, cut it out and spray lacquered it to preclude potential swelling when (eventually) wet with track ballasting. I left out a section of shim under the throwbar to aid movement / reduce friction with the cork roadbed. So the shims were a tiny piece at the points end and a big piece under the remainder. I glued (latex caulk) the shim to the cork and very lightly glued the turnout to the cardboard.
Do note that the long, curved turnouts can easily not lay flat, contributing to derailment potential. Be sure the cork is flat first and then check the install for flatness with a piece of glass or a round bubble level. You want that sucker as flat as possible as your most finneky loco will try to derail on it (trust me).
I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. Foam is softer than cork, and has enough give that I don’t need any shims at all between my Atlas flex-track and my Shinohara turnouts.
All my turnouts are Shinohara with Atlas Flex 83. I don’t have to shimmy anything. One thing that does matter is the rail joiners. I use Atlas universal but I make sure they are brand new ones and are a tight fit on the Shinohara turnout. If after that, you don’t feel an even fit, see if the ties will raise the unlevel side. If that doesn’t work, level the rails than solder.
Joe C
I use Walthers/Shinohara code 83 track, turnouts and joiners. The joiners are a very snug fit, much tighter than Atlas joiners. But I don’t know if the W/S joiners will fit on the Atlas track.
Dante