I am starting a new layout and have decided to use Atlas code 55 for the track. I have found that the flanges of all of my cars seem to be hitting the ties and the cars do not freely traverse the track. An engine will pull the cars fine, but I can still see the car’s wheels are touching the ties.
I know of one solution (I think) that would mean changing out the wheel sets on all my cars.
Is there anything else that can be done?
Thanks for your help.
Joe
I changed out the wheelsets, but one guy I talked to said that he dragged a small screwdriver over the tie spikeheads on the insides of the rails and that solved the issue for him. I would be careful though as those things are what holds the rails in place.
Thanks. I had thought of doing something to the inside of the track, but I was afraid of doing something that would throw the track out of line. I was wondering what others had done and changing the wheelsets seems to be a logical solution.
I run the low profile Micro Trains wheelsets and have no problems. I do have to be careful with loco selection though.
If you have loco’s with larger flanges that you want to run there are some options. You can have someone with a lathe turn them down (or if you have the capability, do it yourself), maybe Northwest Shortline can help with a low profile set, or switch to heavier rail.
My issue was that all of the stuff that I wanted to run that had big flanges was all big steam, big 2-10-0’s and stuff. My RR focuses on a small rundown shortline running smaller antiquated equipment, but has an interchange with a class 1 RR. The Atlas code 55 work’s for the shortline, but not for the class 1 RR that it connects to. The easiest solution for that was to do the class 1 with Micro Engineering code 70 rather then milling (my only other option). It looks better then the Atlas code 80 and it gives it a heavier look then the shortline’s tracks, so it looks just right. I don’t know if this would work for you, but it did for me.
Micro-Trains Lo-Profile wheelsets (plastic) good
Atlas Lo-Profile wheelsets (metal) better
InterMountain Lo-Profile wheelsets (brass) Best
Only my opinion but from what I have seen a given locomotive could pull at least 1/3 more cars if they were all equipped with the InterMontain wheelsets.
My problem is I have a nice looking older car I need some non-standard wheelsets for. They need to be lo-profile of course and exactly 0.600 inches from axle tip to axle tip. Any suggestions?
I agree wholeheartedly, but around here the Atlas and the Intermountains can be hard to find. I haven’t looked on the internet though. The Microtrains are readily availabe at good prices.
Not a clue my friend, but I’ll keep my eyes open and If I see something I’ll shout real loud, K?[;)]
I understand the flange issue very well as I used the Atlas code 55 track for my new layout and ran into the flange issues.
I have several older locos that have wheels that comply with the NMRA standards which was a surprise, on the other hand I have a lot of locos that would not run on it, most of which are steam locos.
Having so many that needed wheel flanges turned down I ask for and received a lathe from the little fat guy last December.
Haven’t had time to do any machining yet as I have been installing decoders in what will run on the track.
The point that I am heading toward is that if you are going to make a purchase of any locomotive check to see if the flanges clear (this can be done with a NMRA standards Gage) and also you will need to be sure that wheels are in gage as well.
There is no easy way out on some of the older steam locos other than disassembling and turning the flanges down.
On the diesels you can take the trucks a part and chuck the wheels in a veri-speed electric drill to turn the wheels and using a file you can reduce the flange diameter.
You will need a dial vernier caliper to measure your progress.
I have done this to my diesels and had very good results but it is anything but fast and you need to be careful not to go to far, check progress frequently!
I do not recommend trying to hook power to the loco to spin the wheels and using the file as most locos have plastic or nylon gears and they are susceptible to stripping due to the pressure that needs to be exerted with the file and it is very hard on the motor.
I tried this and burned up one motor in an older Atlas diesel and stripped the gear in a Concore UP Bigboy!
One or two other points about the Atlas code 55 stuff,…
This track is designed to RP25 specs, so if your flanges conform to that, you should be OK.
Also, I used all #7 turnouts because I had heard at the time that the #5’s had a problem with the frogs not being deep enough and too tight also. This could be fixed, but it was a pain. I think this has been fixed by Atlas, but I’m not sure. Can anyone verify?